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> Ao Nang Tower
Orange Chandeliers
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 48
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Routes in Ao Nang Tower
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Ao Nang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joob Joob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Chandeliers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | P1 Dean Saydom & Will Hair 2/94, P2 Paul Brunner & Marcel Eckhardt 12/96, P3 Paul Brunner & Trevor Massiah 10/97 |
| Page Views: | 5,816 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Jan 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Climb out of the boat on the right side of the tower to an anchor about 10 ft out of the water. You can belay your second up from here. From here traverse left ~50 feet with a fixed line and threads to clip, about 5.7. We belayed this section but it could easily be solo'd as you are above water after all.
Pitch 1 5.10d 10 bolts, 105 feet.
Climb upwards on tufas and stalactites, pulling a few steeper bulges along the way.
Pitch 2 5.11a 6 bolts 60 feet
Negotiate the steep start, then head up easier ground to the next anchor.
Pitch 3 5.11b 11 bolts 80 feet
Continue up through another steep bulge, to some easier ground. Hit the first crux where the steepness becomes vertical, the holds dramatically shrink in size, and the rock becomes sharp. Snag a rest on the next moderate section which goes back to the nice orange limestone and pull the final steep moves to the anchor.
Pitch 1 5.10d 10 bolts, 105 feet.
Climb upwards on tufas and stalactites, pulling a few steeper bulges along the way.
Pitch 2 5.11a 6 bolts 60 feet
Negotiate the steep start, then head up easier ground to the next anchor.
Pitch 3 5.11b 11 bolts 80 feet
Continue up through another steep bulge, to some easier ground. Hit the first crux where the steepness becomes vertical, the holds dramatically shrink in size, and the rock becomes sharp. Snag a rest on the next moderate section which goes back to the nice orange limestone and pull the final steep moves to the anchor.
Location
On the left side of the Tower. The boatman should know where to drop you off.
The guides mention using 2 ropes to rappel from pitch 2, to try and keep your ropes dry, If I was to do it again I would only bring 1 70m rope and rappel with it on the last rap into the boat.
Rappel from the top pitch to Pitch 2, backclip a few bolts to maintain contact with the wall. From here you could rap to the ocean with two ropes or rappel back to the start of the route and do a short rappel back into the boat. All anchors are set up for rappel.
The guides mention using 2 ropes to rappel from pitch 2, to try and keep your ropes dry, If I was to do it again I would only bring 1 70m rope and rappel with it on the last rap into the boat.
Rappel from the top pitch to Pitch 2, backclip a few bolts to maintain contact with the wall. From here you could rap to the ocean with two ropes or rappel back to the start of the route and do a short rappel back into the boat. All anchors are set up for rappel.
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