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 ADVANCED
San Ysidro
Routes Sorted
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Applied Magnetics T,TR 
Chavez/Mosher T 
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Face Lift T 
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Great Race S,TR 
Haunted by Waters S 
Heckling, The T,TR 
Many Happy Returns T,TR 
Orangahang T,TR 
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Return On Investment T 
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Vanishing Flakes T,TR 
Weeny Roofs, The T 
Young William T 

Orangahang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mosher, Dixon
Page Views: 2,116
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Jenny At the Small overhang with what I think may ...

Description 

Orangahang is located 30 yards right of the 3rd class gully, and ascends an obvious break in the bulge. Juggy moves over the bulge lead to easier slab/crack climbing.


Protection 

The bulge is bolted, and then trad gear towards the top. The anchors are shared with Many Happy Returns. For toproping, bring a long sling, as the anchor is set back from the face.



Photos of Orangahang Slideshow Add Photo
Perennial favorite Orangahang, at San Ysidro Canyon.
Perennial favorite Orangahang, at San Ysidro Canyo...
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Even though this route goes through a slight overhang, nice hand and foot holds make for a route that people of all experience levels can enjoy. Can set up a TR by heading up the gully to the left of the climb - bolts for TR.

By Adam D
From: Los Osos, CA
Dec 20, 2007

reasonably protected without the bolts if you're so inclined.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My experience has been that this route eats some beginners alive. The movement through the crux is awkward, strenuous and reachy--not the best route for building a beginner's confidence or for teaching first-timers good climbing technique.

By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Sep 24, 2010

If you use some long slings down low you can move right and link up with the upper part of what I think is rick's route. Makes the pitch longer and is well protected.