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Oppositional Defiance Disorder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: SA, Andy Peters
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Description 

Yet another quality Troll Wall moderate crack! This route starts in an obvious left-facing corner that gets bigger as it goes higher, eventually turning into a right slanting crack/shallow corner. The Tao of Choy parallels this crack just eight feet left, and both cracks form an alcove under a roof approximately 35 feet up (although neither route ascends the final, dirty 12 feet up into the alcove). Above the right slanting crack, step left on a small ledge to a clean thin crack (identified by a piton approximately 10 feet up. The main crack becomes very dirty from this point on). Continue up this for 15 feet, and then step left to a small stance at the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)


Protection 

3 pitons, pro to 3", anchors.


location 

The third crack system downhill and right of Gully, and the next independant crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)



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