Opposable Thumbs Required
|Type: ||Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Roy Suggett|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||May through October|
|Page Views: ||981|
|Submitted By: ||Roy Suggett on Sep 5, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Finding the right sequence.
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This route is on a triangular-shaped pillar mid-way in the Lower Jungle. The bolts are right of the arete though the climb dictates switching from right to left and back across the arete.
To the left and around the corner of "Knuckle Draggers Needed." A new climb on a second arete "Allelopathy Arete" is just left of this climb. A pillar very close to these climbs has yet another arete to be put up! Three aretes in a row would be cool! This corner forms the end of the "Wailing Wall."
Quick draws to chains.
Contemplating the crux moves to reach the anchor.
Should she be right? Should she be left?
BETA PHOTO: Back and forth around the arete. Super fun.
Beautiful arete climbing
BETA PHOTO: Yellow is Nairobi
Red is Opposible Thumbs Required...
Sep 6, 2011
a beautiful line, with a few wild moves. i climbed this directly up the face, right of the bolt line. it was a bit harder, but fantastic.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
One of the best sport routes I've done anywhere! The opening section is thought provoking with a halfway mantle that will get your heart going. The arete sequence is so unlikely and exposed you'll be high-fiving yourself off the route when you get it clean. The last couple of overhanging moves are the cherry. Bolts are exactly where you want them and I pulled the last loose hold off at the bottom. Seemed HARD for 11a though, more like beta intensive mid 11.
Excellent eye on this one Roy!
Edit: looking at the pictures and re-reading the description, it seemed like we stuck to the R side of the arete until the last move. There might be an easier sequence on the L at the 3rd/4th bolt which I didn't see. So technical mid.11 for the R side version.