This route is funky climbing and clipping. The first two bolt placements can be hard to clip, as they are far away from the left side natural line, but the location makes sense since it is on the cleanest part of the rock. The move after the second bolt can be protected with a #2 C3. Whats up with the extra bolt just next to the anchors? The stance for the anchor clip sucks.
By chris mcguigan From: belmont, nc Oct 20, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
At the start of the climb the open book to the right of the bolts is funky and feels to me like it deserves a 10, the line to the left of the bolts at the start I could see a 9 for the route.
The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts.
I got a .4 C4 to fit in the horizontal between bolts 2 & 3
By b.t.miller From: Charlotte, NC May 5, 2014 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a PG13
this climb is stout from 1st move to the anchors. Get your endurance on!
We climbed the dihedral to climber's right to the 1st bolt and clipped it, then down climbed to the start of the pillar which leads straight to the crux. Climbed the initial 25' two ways: 1). up the left side of the pillar. Maybe 5.8+ territory with very cool holds and makes for a much easier crux move; 2). crank straight up the pillar and pull through the top of this pillar into a hand sized V-shaped hold. The move into this little V-shaped hold and the move after this felt every bit of 5.9+ to us. I may have even mumbled 10a under my breath as I was climbing that short, stout section.
From bolt #2 to #3 is protectable, and you should count on doing this or you're looking at ground fall territory pretty quickly. No doubt this climb is meant to be climbed with bolts and gear so make sure you take a small rack (cams and nuts).
There are a lot of strenuous moves on this climb. Pretty relentless once it starts. And the most strenuous part is friggin anchoring at the top. As you're approaching the anchors, the position/holds seem innocent enough but once you arrive you quickly find out that it's a pump fest.