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Ophir Wall

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Ophir Wall  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Max on Oct 14, 2004
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Description 

Ophir Wall is located at about 9,000 feet in the "town" of Ophir outside of Telluride. Many single pitch and several 600 foot climbs are on the Ophir Wall. Despite its reputation, Ophir has a lot of very high quality rock. Ophir is old school; the grades are solid, the routes can be runout, and the climbing is technical. John Long and Lynn Hill put up many high quality routes here, including the coveted Ophir Broke.

Getting There 

Heading north on US 550, turn west (left) on Ophir Pass Road, about 10 miles outside of Silverton. Ophir Pass is too rough, but a high clearance vehicle is nice. If you don't want to go over Ophir Pass, then you can take 184 West to Cortez and then CO 145 East to Telluride. Ophir is about 15 miles south of Telluride on CO 145.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

46 Total Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',13],['5.11',8],['5.12',4],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ophir Wall:
The Slot   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   East Buttress
Blue Moon   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
Horse Play   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
Hot Wee Wee   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Main Wall
Rainbow Warrior   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Main Wall
Comes a Time   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Main Wall
Feeling Edgy   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Main Wall
Dr. Gizmo   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Wall
Cheeseburger in Paradise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Y-Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
Total Recall   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
White Salamander   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Wall
Savelli Express   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 8 pitches, 600'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Ophir Wall

Featured Route For Ophir Wall
White Salamander, 5.12-.

White Salamander 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : Main Wall
Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Ophir Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Ophir Wall in the Fall...
BETA PHOTO: Ophir Wall in the Fall...
The impressive Ophir Wall as seen from the talus field.
The impressive Ophir Wall as seen from the talus f...
Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon as seen from The Dark Side.
Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon as seen from The Dar...

Comments on Ophir Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2005
Bill Kees is the man.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2005
"Ophir ", in terms of climbing, generally refers to 3 main areas. The Ophir Wall, which is the prominent face you'll see from the road, The Dark Side which is made up of many smaller cliffs directly opposite The Ophir Wall, and Cracked Canyon, a moderately steep canyon a few hundred yards east of The Ophir Wall. The approaches to these three areas are very different and I would recommend asking a local or consulting one of the guidebooks (as of this fall the third should be out) for advice.

Often described as loose, chossy, etc. the area does offer a good variety of climbs up to about 5 pitches with some good, dense cragging in Cracked Canyon. I would guess that at least half of the 200+ climbs in the area are well worth doing. Besides many good climbs the place has a great history with routes put up by Robbins, Barber, Long, L. Hill, C. Fowler, A. Savelli, M. Wilford just to name a few. And of course Bill Kees, who was correctly identified as "the man" by previous AC. Of course with a crew like this putting up the routes the warning sign should be flashing "stiff ratings, at times runout".

Beautiful setting. Have fun.
By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 26, 2007
Is there a good guidebook for this place? Can you get it in Telluride?
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 20, 2009
Guidebook is "Telluride Rock", you can find it at Jagged Edge in Telluride.
By chris Kalous
Sep 1, 2009
Went to the Ophir wall for the first time, pretty specifically to do Ophir Broke among others. I was very psyched to see and try this test-piece. My favorite part? Hiking up to see an old ratty fixed line on the route. No wait, I think repeatedly batting it out of the way while pumped silly leading the upper part was even better.

Look, mini-traxioning is all the craze with the friendless, but if you have a training route you want to leave a cord on, don't pick the area's most noteworthy and proud test-piece. Only an ego maniac would think its okay to impinge on another's experience like that. At least leave it set up as a top-rope so anybody could pull it to get it out of the way.

Otherwise, Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon both are awesome. Did not find the grades super stiff (is there a backwater area that doesn't claim this?) Better be good with your gear to safely lead some of the harder trad pitches, though.