ophir wall / telluride info

Hi there

Just hopin for a weather/approach update about Ophir main wall near telluride.

Anyone got any info or pics or trip reports to share?

Think it'll be climbable in May?

Thanks
Heather

I just drove by today. The main wall and the approach is snow free.

Drove by, as well, a couple days ago and things looked free, clear and dry, but still be wary of loose rock from the wintery freeze. Probably a helmet affair.

A few things to note about Ophir that you probably already know.

Lots of loose rock all year round. I know a person that is paralyzed from a rock fall accident while climbing in Ophir. From that perspective its as serious as the Black (rock fall potential)... ESPECIALLY on the main wall this time of year. I would never climb there without a helmet. I definitely moved some goosy blocks around climbing on some of the less traveled single pitch lines in Cracked Canyon last summer and that was June.

The main wall is mostly south facing and assuming the approach is good then it should be climbable.

I believe the rock is Rhyolite. So its slicker and less friction than the granite you see elsewhere in CO. It also means more splitters :-). Expect spicy run out face climbing with less than ideal pro.

Also beware of the ratings in the guide book (Telluride Rocks) put up by JL (John Long) or LH (Lynn Hill) ;). They both spent some time in the 70's establishing routes up there and they may be "sandbagged".

Enjoy Ophir, its so so good.... I love climbing there but usually don't get to Telluride until June.

Drew

My name is Antoine Savelli, and my wife and I live at the base of the Ophir Wall behind the Post Office that we own. I have been putting new routes up on the Ophir Wall, East Buttress, Lower East Buttress and Crack Canyon for over 40 years. Our property line reaches the lower Crack canyon, across the road to the Howard Fork and West to the Fiume all the way to tree line below the Ophir Wall. We own the Post Office and all adjacent structures. We have closed access to the Ophir Wall from our property and the lower east Buttress, law enforced for invasion of privacy. Furthermore we will not tolerate misinformation of routes that I have painstakingly created for the benefit and safety of climbers. I am also a fully certified UIAGM/IFMGA High Mountain Guide from Chamonix, France and fully certified AMGA Alpine Guide from the United States. Those who wish to gather information from routes and conditions can do so for free by writing to: antoinesavelli@aol.com.. We thank-you for respecting our privacy, and wish you good and safe climbing

Route disinformation/misinformation corrections: In Europe we consider a 'Redpoint on sight' the original grade to be used, not after rehearsing. That is why climbers who say they free a route after much rehearsing indeed should lower 'their grade'. But an 'on sight red point' retains a stiffer grade. On sight redpoints at 9c or 5.15d/5.16 are extremely rare as of 2020.
1/ Savelli Express 10 pitches to tree, can be strung as climbers desire. First pitch 75 feet to stance. Second original and true pitch goes left 20 feet or 5 meters LEFT AND SLIGHTLY DOWN and up up a 60 foot or 18 meters steep slab that goes at 5.12 or 7a.
2/ Ophir Arete Lower Central East Buttress (right route) . 2 pitches. First pitch 5.10 or 5c/6a. Second pitch (on arete only) 5.14 or 8b. In crack 5.10+ move bring one medium size TCU.
3/ Le Roy Lower Central East Buttress (left route): 2 pitches. First pitch 5.9, 4th. Second pitch 5.14 c or 8b+ move off alcove to overhanging arete on jugs.
4/ NEW ROUTES:
JUNKEEDOO: leftwards East Buttress (does not use crack and bolts on arete cannot be used for crack called PINEBOX (bring medium size rack for crack). First short pitch 5.12a or 7a. Second pitch (crux on arete) 5.12c or 7a+.
BORN FREE: left of JUNKEEDOO; over small roof 5.12a or 7a. I will say this a long reach will bring it down to 5.11c or 6b. 
QUID PRO QUO: left of BORN FREE; 5.12b or 7a/ 7a+. A long reach will bring down to 5.12a or 7a..

NOTE: I have climbed Pinebox many times a moderate rightwards leaning crack 5.9+/5.10a;  that is 60 feet long or 18 meters. It requires gear and contrary to a disinformation campaign DOES NOT have bolts. Those bolts that you see from the road APPEAR to be on the crack for the unpracticed AMATEUR (an optical illusion of distance),  but are destined for JUNKEEDOO NOT PINEBOX !!!!. This disinformation campaign is extremely dangerous and misleading because, if you fell on Pinebox without gear a fall at midway WITHOUT NATURAL PROTECTION could potentially be fatal. Experience speaks for itself. These three routes are still projects and need work.

Conclusion: the latter sector is still under construction. Furthermore those who intend on destroying or removing my routes as was done in the eighties are in fact destroying themselves in the process and the code of honor Alpinists, climbers and ski-alpinists abide by. The rock is my canvas and as an artist I create a work of art unfettered by bias and programs as I see fit. Much the same I do not efface, retrieve or or remove routes to fit egocentric means of self-importance or retribution. I create to create, some dislike it some like it and it has no bearing on my work. Picasso, Matisse, were sometimes hated sometimes loved. their works of art are here today and stand the test of time and are priceless...I would never never never remove someone's creation!

ANTOINE SAVELLI
OPHIR WALL RESIDENT 40 years and counting
Chamonix UIAGM/IFMGA High Mountain Guide
AMGA fully certified Alpine Guide

Ophir is stout!  Think lots of face climbing with gear!  Best to go slowly here.  There are 5.10 routes here that will make you wish you were somewhere else if your not mentally prepared. 

Antoine Savelli wrote:
ANTOINE SAVELLI
OPHIR WALL RESIDENT 40 years and counting
Chamonix UIAGM/IFMGA High Mountain Guide
AMGA fully certified Alpine Guide

There’s and old adage out there about god and Swiss Mountain guides. I’m going to use it here.

"Picasso, Matisse, were sometimes hated sometimes loved. "

I heard those guys werent all that.

God bless!!!