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Art of Dreaming, The 
Bedtime Story 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 
Bobsled, The 
Caffeine Buzz 
Chore Boy 
Daily Grind, The 
Golden Slumber 
Lucky Strikes 
Mr. Sandman 
My Buddy 
Not So Obscure 
Sleepless Child 
Sleepless in Boulder 
Smell the Coffee 
Snooze Button 
Something Obscure 
Tooth Fairy 
Wake Up Call 
War On Freedom 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Neil Backstrom & Mark Rolofson on Nov. 9, 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall & Winter
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Sep 28, 2010
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  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a 2 bolt, 5.10, direct start to "Tooth Fairy" that is more consistent with the difficulty (5.9 to 5.10)
    past the climb's bouldery 5.11c start. A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Climb up near vertical rock to the 1st bolt and move right & up to 2nd bolt. Pull onto a low-angle slab & join "Tooth Fairy" at its 3rd bolt.


    10 feet right of the start of "Tooth Fairy" & left of the large tree that is just left of the start of "Mr. Sandman".


    8 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

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