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T-Wall East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Tension Span T 
Abortion Contortion S 
Ain't So Eazy T 
Art T 
Atom Smasher T 
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 
Bin Laden Been Fooled* T 
Blind Date T 
Blood on the Rocks T 
Board Walk T 
Brazen Serpent S 
Bugs From Hell T 
Cake Walk T 
Can O' Worms T 
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 
Celestial Mechanics T 
Centerfold T 
Changnurdle T 
Clip and Trip T 
Competitive Edge T 
Contents Under Pressure T 
Corner Pockets T 
Cota Coca T 
Crackattack T 
Crash Position T 
Crazy Hooker T 
Creaky Tweaks T 
Curb Sandwich S 
Day's Work T 
Defcon Five T 
Digital Display T 
Digital Macabre T 
Dirt Bag T 
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 
Electric Rats T 
Exodus T 
Exposed Aggregate T 
False Alarm T 
Fill in the Blanks T 
Finagle T 
Finger Lockin' Good T 
Fly with the Falcon T 
Garden, The T 
Genesis T 
Gift of Power S 
Golden Gloves T 
Golden Locks T 
Gravity Creeps T 
Guardian of the Gate T 
Hands Across America T 
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 
Heaven of Animals, The T 
Hidden Assets T 
Hold Your Horses! T 
House of The Rising Sun S 
Hungry for Heaven T 
I'm Late T 
In Pursuit of Excellence T 
Infinite Pursuit T 
Jay Walker T 
Let's Face It! T 
Line Drive T 
Lord of the Dance S 
Love Handle T,S 
March Hare T 
Margin Of Error T 
Margin of Profit T 
Massive Attack T 
Mean Cuisine T 
Meeker Rat, The S 
Mirage S 
Molly and Rocket T 
Motor Booty T 
Mrs. Socrates T 
Multiple Use Area T 
My Lost China Doll T 
Myth of the Spastics T 
Nappy T 
New Beginnings T 
Night Shift T 
No More Tiers T 
Nutrasweet T 
Open Sesame T 
Paleface S 
Passages T 
People's Express T 
Plastic Toys T 
Point of Departure T 
Points O' Contact T 
Precious Orr T 
Prerequisite for Excellence T 
Proof of Purchase  T 
Puppy Ride T 
Razor Worm T 
Reptile Analysis T 
Reptile Paralysis T 
Restless Pedestrian T 
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 
Sanscrit T 
Scamper Proof T 
Seal Test T 
Shiva's Last Dance T 
Short Arm Inspection T 
Sly Willie Snores T 
Some Girls S 
Southern Express T 
Squatter's Rites T 
Standard Deviation T 
Steel Puppies T 
Steeplechase T,TR 
Steepopolis T 
Stepping Stone T 
Stone Wave T 
Sugar in the Raw T 
Sun King S 
Sunday Gardening T 
Super Slide T 
Surf's Up S 
Sweep, The T 
Tiers for Beers T 
Time Takes a Cigarette T 
Totem Pole T 
Twistin' in the Wind S 
Unknown T 
Up in Arms T 
Who Needs a Thnead? T 

Open Sesame 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Goins, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 2,269
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Open Sesame

Description 

Open Sesame gets my vote for 'T-Wall's airiest 5.8'.

Beginning with the opening jughaul through stacked flakes, and continuing over a pair of bulges, Open Sesame confronts the solid 5.8 leader with a series of stiff moves that will fill britches, at the very least, with lots of air. The rest is up to you.

Pull over the junky-looking tiers to the right of the cave and head for a pair of bottomless thin cracks below a smaller cave. Wrestling over this cave with dignity intact will be the crux for most; after this, a long, exposed crack leads to the right side of the big roof above.

Location 

Pass Precious Orr, Stepping Stone etc. and continue along until the trail pops up a little set of stairs and passes beneath a jungly, low-angle section with a don't-touch-that pillar atop stacked blocks of choss. You're looking for a 15'-wide cave above the trail that has calved off a series of table-sized slabs; the route emerges from the right side of the cave and heads for the right margin of a big roof at the clifftop.

Protection 

Ringbolts at the top. You'll want the belayer tied in to the bottom of the rope for this one if lowering off; a 60m rope won't have much left here.


Photos of Open Sesame Slideshow Add Photo
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready.  Route and belay was super wet this day.
Tim about to start route with a few spotters ready...

Comments on Open Sesame Add Comment
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By 426
Feb 27, 2007

  • **Spoiler alert*****

#5 wc protects top perfectly.

Bottom is a bit loose with poor pro.

Leaving cave with dignity---secret jugs abound, do not do what I did and crawl in (wanting to die). This crack eats all kind of pro.

Can reach trail with 70m. Please tie a knott if using shorter ropes.