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Open Project 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Michael Kimm on Apr 20, 2013
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Description 

The impressive line between the approach pitches' anchors, capped by a very steep roof. From the 5.5 approach pitch anchor, scramble across the 4th class ramp to the center of the vertical wall. Clip bolt one, make a few moves through an opening 5.11 sequence, and follow the line for four more bolts until you're about 9 feet below the roof. Make several very hard moves on micro crimps until you can stab a hand into a little jug in the underside of the start of the roof. Gain two good holds on the lip of this initial roof, clip, and pull through three bolts of sixty degree overhanging terrain. Pull the lip, ten feet of 5.9 climbing to the anchors, and you've claimed your first ascent!
Project's working name is Kodiak, for anyone that's curious. May be as hard as 5.14a... hard to tell, given it feels substantially harder than anything I've ever been on.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchors. Feel free to add an additional one between bolts five and six if necessary.



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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 21, 2013

No pics? Damn, Mike, am I going to have to walk all the way up there to realize this is too much work for me?

On a serious note, cool of you to post up an open project. Most sportos out here would probably have just "added holds", and claimed it at whatever reduced grade. Looking forward to getting out there and checking it out. Thanks for making the effort. Civilization is cleaning up and getting better and better these days.

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 22, 2013

You can see part of the line in the photos of Ocean on Grizzly. I'll try to get a better shot of it next time I'm up there, especially if I decide to aid my way through the crux again.