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 ADVANCED
Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Trip to the Tip T 
Assault and Battery TR 
Godspeed S 
Lesbian Lust S 
Marsupial Lust S 
Open Container T 
Right Side Arete S 
Secret Treaties T 
Unsorted Routes:

Open Container 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Stoner, Terry McCarthy & Geoff Archer, October 1989
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder with the climb Mars...

Description 

The northwest face of the Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder is where you'll find this short but fun route on excellent rock.

Begin just right of a triangular cutout on the north side of the boulder and lieback/smear your way along a low-angled arete to a creaky stance below a high first bolt. Steep friction on polished rock past the first bolt is the crux with more positive holds soon appearing in time for the small runout to the second bolt. Easy moves lead to the top and the anchors.

Note: The stance below the first bolt is on a creaking flake which doesn't inspire much confidence; although it doesn't seem to move if it breaks off the climb will become much harder. Given 5.8 in the Vogel guide this is definitely harder than that and while short it's worth a spin if in the area. One star out of five.

Protection 

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8" bolts)


Photos of Open Container Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Stoner with a loaded gun. FA of Open Container. Originally rated 5.8.
Dave Stoner with a loaded gun. FA of Open Containe...

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By peterlila
Apr 10, 2007

Move from the first bolt requires reach to a shallow finger dish on right hand. If you can reach that it's 5.9, if you can't it would be considerably tougher. Entry move and traverse are excellent. Since you came all this way, give it a go.