Type: Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,468 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 5, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

NOTE: While I have climbed most of this route, the below info is from Duffy Dog (FA, 2003). My own experiences are in the comments below.

This is one route with two distinct finishes.

Climb 3-4 steps of 70 to 100 feet each (WI 3+ to 4-) with a bit of uphill, snow slogging in between. Above this there are two options.

On the left is a very wide and fairly steep WI 4+ to 5- a little under 200 foot long. This is Open Casket.

On the right is an ice chimney that is about M4- for about 250 feet which is Closed Casket.

Both flows top out at the same place on the top of the ridge with awesome views.

One 200 foot rap off of a v-thread gets you to the base of the 2 variations. Slog down to the next ice pillar and traversed out to climbers left and 3rd class it all the way to the bottom. You might have to traverse back to climber's right to get past the first ice pillar.

Location Suggest change

1-1.5 miles up the Willow Creek Rd from the winter closure. Look for a large slope avalanche path (did you check the avy conditions?) covered with small aspen saplings. Above this is a deep cleft in the rock wall with ice below it and you should just be able to make out ice way above it. This is the route. If you hit Boulder Gulch on your right you went a little too far.

Protection Suggest change

Screws and gear.

Photos

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