Open Books 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Jay Foley, Donna Longo |
| Submitted By: | George Perkins on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Description Another quality line on Water Wall, Open Books starts up 3 open book features, then turns a desperate roof at the top.
Start in the first open book, step right on a ledge, head up the 2nd open book (still easy), step right and enter the 3rd open book. A technical crux guards the exit stepping left out of this last corner, which is followed by easy climbing to the headwall. Clip a piton with a big reach (can be backed up with gear), and turn the tricky steep section- the 2nd crux of the route- to the big ledge and the anchor.
Location Middle to right side of Water Wall. Just left of Gothic Pillar, look for 3 open book/wide groove features, each one to the right of the one below it.
Protection Cams and nuts to 2". A fixed piton protects the upper crux.
3-bolt anchor, with quicklinks equipped for rappelling, is found on the ledge at the top (and is likely new since it isn't mentioned in the books).
By Jfoley
Jun 3, 2010
| Donna and I originally climbed this route to the top and walked off. The final head wall above new anchor makes for a couple more good moves and the belay at the top was a nice way to finish. Not sure who placed the anchor but we used it this weekend and it seemed OK. |
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| The fixed pin at the upper overhang is a pretty janky placement; might not even hold body weight, and the eye is placed so it won't accept a carabiner. Best plan is to not plan on counting on it. Gear can be placed nearby.
Great climb, otherwise. |
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Was a bit sketched out when I saw that pin. A #1 or #2 C4 in a flared pod below will back it up, but I could not find any other decent gear at that spot plus your last piece will be likely 20 feet below you at this point. |
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