Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 958 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This slick open book is probably the hardest 5.8 in White Rock/Los Alamos, and is unfortunately a classic. Many people find it frustrating, but I think it is one of the best easier cracks at White Rock.

Stem and jam your way up the first 15' of thin hands in the back of the open book (crux) to a few good holds, and a stemming rest. This slippery crux spits off many people, but pro is good. Next, lieback or scum your way up a wide hand crack in a right-facing corner to another good rest below a slab/ramp leading up and left. Follow up this airy ramp, which has better footholds on the exposed left edge.

Location Suggest change

This is the obvious open book that begins just left of the cave on the north side.

Protection Suggest change

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.

Photos

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