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Y - North Side
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Nose, The 
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Open Book 
Original Open Book 
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Ramp, The 
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Wisconsin 

Open Book 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 30, 2008
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Description 

This slick open book is probably the hardest 5.8 in White Rock/Los Alamos, and is unfortunately a classic.

Stem and jam your way up the first 15' of thin hands in the back of the open book (crux) to a few good holds, and a stemming rest. This cruxy part is slick, and spits off many people, but pro is good. Next, lieback or scum your way up a wide hand crack in a right-facing corner to another good rest below a slab/ramp leading up and left. Follow up this airy ramp, which has better footholds on the exposed left edge. The top-out mantle move isn't too tough, unless you're really pumped.


Location 

This is the obvious open book that begins just left of the cave on the north side.


Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.



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By John Keller
Mar 8, 2012

Now why would you call this climb 'unfortunately' a classic? I grew up on this climb. It's fantastic. If the Open Book (and Lost Almost in general) is where you learned hand jams, you can climb cracks anywhere. Because of this climb, I'm never so happy as when I have my hands in a crack.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 9, 2012

This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.