Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory
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This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.
Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)
Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)
Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)
Descent- rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel from here to the ground with double ropes.
Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #5. 1 #5 is easily sufficient. Double #4s are mandatory. Stoppers for the stud ladder as you can use them for protection with nuts screwed down tight by hand. One may want a butterfly hanger or two as the nuts may eventually vanish. 4 quickdraws.
|Photos of Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory Slideshow
Matt Pickren belayed by Ben Kiessel on the first p...
Matt peeking around the corner near the top of pit...
A couple shady characters looking out over Grand J...
|Comments on Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory
|By Max Supertramp|
Nov 16, 2013
Traverse piton @ start of p2 is now gone. It rattled out after I led past it last evening. We did not have a hammer with which to replace it.
The route does go without the pin. The missing pin was a smallest BD baby angle. New tat for P2 rap anchor would be a good idea.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Nov 15, 2007
PG13? where was the scary stuff?
Also when we were climbing linking pitch 1 and 2 seemed like it would have been easy.
|By Peter Blank|
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Oct 9, 2012
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Totally blew past the 1st anchor no problem. I went straight up instead of moving left into the other crack system, you can traverse the ledge up top pretty easy. Also a single 70m gets you to the ground from the 2nd belay but not with much to spare. Cruiser and fun, if this thing wasn't tucked so far back in there, it would see a lot more traffic.