Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory  5.9 C1

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9- C1 [details] FA:  Cameron Burns, Jonathan Butler and Jesse Harvey- August 1, 1998 Season:  Spring and Fall are optimal (north facing) Submitted By:  Matt Pickren on Nov 14, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Oompah Tower as seen from the approach.

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Description 

This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.

Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)

Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)

Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)

Location 

Descent- rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel from here to the ground with double ropes.

Protection 

Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #5. 1 #5 is easily sufficient. Double #4s are mandatory. Stoppers for the stud ladder as you can use them for protection with nuts screwed down tight by hand. One may want a butterfly hanger or two as the nuts may eventually vanish. 4 quickdraws.

Photos of Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory Slideshow

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Matt Pickren belayed by Ben Kiessel on the first p...	Matt peeking around the corner near the top of pit...	A couple shady characters looking out over Grand J...