Ooey Gooey  5.11a

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Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Miguel Grijalva, Chris Grijalva Submitted By:  Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Matt Price going for the RP on Ooey Gooey (11a).

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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Enjoyable and fairly sustained route (after you get through the bottom, anyhow). First clip is perhaps a bit higher than you might want it but a stick clip is always an option. Work yourself into the giant hueco and then reach up for a jug and pull an interesting move over a bulge.

After working through the bulge, take all the rest you need and head right and straight up through the business. Sustained and steep through the next three bolts. Crux comes after the third bolt.

Route starts left of the funky water trough that is Merlins Mantra.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Ooey Gooey Slideshow

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Matt Price making the third clip of Ooey Gooey.	Guess the RP will have to wait until another day! ...	Jason's flash attempt of Ooey Gooey.
Guess I'll have to wait until another day for the ...	Dave SHearer warming-up on Ooey Gooey at the Encha...	Ooey Gooey action. April 2011.