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Matt Price going for the RP on Ooey Gooey (11a).
Enjoyable and fairly sustained route (after you get through the bottom, anyhow). First clip is perhaps a bit higher than you might want it but a stick clip is always an option. Work yourself into the giant hueco and then reach up for a jug and pull an interesting move over a bulge.
After working through the bulge, take all the rest you need and head right and straight up through the business. Sustained and steep through the next three bolts. Crux comes after the third bolt.
Route starts left of the funky water trough that is Merlins Mantra.
5 bolts to anchors.
Matt Price making the third clip of Ooey Gooey.
Guess the RP will have to wait until another day! ...
Jason's flash attempt of Ooey Gooey.
Guess I'll have to wait until another day for the ...
Dave SHearer warming-up on Ooey Gooey at the Encha...
Ooey Gooey action. April 2011.
|By Allison Fritz|
Oct 21, 2007
First bolt is high off the ground but the climbing is not as bad as it looks. Nice sustain climbing after the second bolt. Nice holds on either side to clip the anchors.
From: Duke City
Aug 16, 2011
I have no idea who Charles Bitting is but he had nothing to do with the FA of this route. My brother Chris and I put this route up around the same time we did Jemima and Jeremy Fischer. It probably only matters to me but thought I would mention it.