This rock is on the north side of Fern Canyon, immediately north of Pellaea. Pellaea and Onoclea appear to be the same rock from many vantage points.
Leave the Fern Canyon trail in the same place as the approach to Pellaea (at present there is a wildlife closure sign and large mass of branches blocking the way where you turn off). Head up the easy gully east of Pellaea about scramble up this gully about 300 feet (watch for poison ivy).
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Onoclea:
West Face, Onoclea 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b V-easy 3 Trad, TR, Boulder, 25'
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East Face/Onoclea 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a CO : Flatirons : ... : Onoclea
Scramble up the gully east of Onoclea. Pellaea and Onoclea (named for two genuses of ferns) are separated by a deep notch, but this dies out into a crack at the base of the east face which is only a few inches wide. It is easy to hike too far, because it is hard to see the tops of the formations through the trees.Start the climb either up this crack, or up the face to it's right. This is the most unpleasant pitch of the climb as there are many pine needles on this face. I climbed up a scruf...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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