Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Only in the Potrero could I get away with this...
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Mar 15, 2013
shirtless wonder
+1 EricSchmidt bruno-cx
Joined Oct 22, 2009
8 points
Mar 16, 2013
I like it ED, that's a first world belay station. If that's how you role down there I might just have to come down there to check out your routes sometime, looks cool. Grover
Joined Jul 12, 2010
326 points
Mar 16, 2013
Thanks for the kind words Mark I'll be back in colorado next week and if weather's nice would be way psyched to get out and climb with you. Jack Sparrow
From denver, co
Joined Jun 28, 2010
740 points
Administrator
Mar 16, 2013
Ed Wright wrote:
Would I drive around inside the city of Monterrey at that hour? No, not unless it were a life-and-death scenario such as taking someone to the hospital.

I have. But that was last year. I distinctly recall a flat-brown spray-painted truck driving by with guys in the back wearing black ski masks. They were carrying automatic weapons and they had a .50 caliber LMG mounted on the back. I looked down at the license plate and, unsurprisingly, it was missing. I know it was the federal military, but still that is a rather strange sight to see late at night. It looked like something out of a serious bank-robber movie.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Mar 16, 2013
At the BRC
Jack Sparrow wrote:
Thanks for the kind words Mark I'll be back in colorado next week and if weather's nice would be way psyched to get out and climb with you.


Just text me, I'd love to get out. Bring some supplies back and maybe we can bolt some belay ledges/refreshment stands on at North Table Mountain.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Mar 16, 2013
My cool Elly....
obsig.ch/e107_plugins/coppermi... Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Mar 16, 2013
I'll see if ed can make me an extra one. Could make climbing at table mountain tolerable. Jack Sparrow
From denver, co
Joined Jun 28, 2010
740 points
Mar 16, 2013
Me
Did anybody patent those yet? Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 17, 2013
My main problem with this is the whole "look what I can get away with in mexico, id be hanged if it were anywhere else" vibe of Ed's post. Just because it isnt in a first world country doesnt mean you dont have to respect whats there. I think regardless of how strict or lax your ethic is you should try not to put shit on the wall that doesnt absolutely have to be there.

I have climbed at potrero before and loved it, but I think that place could use an ethics reality check sometimes..
dvilim
Joined May 7, 2012
10 points
Mar 17, 2013
Stabby
dvilim wrote:
but I think that place could use an ethics reality check sometimes..

Why?
You feel so strongly about a particular POV that it should be made mandatory everywhere?
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Mar 17, 2013
Perspective:




How dare you, Ed. How dare you.
todd w
Joined May 5, 2008
2 points
Mar 17, 2013
Mike Lane wrote:
Why? You feel so strongly about a particular POV that it should be made mandatory everywhere?


I dont think anything should be made mandatory. One thing i've always respected about climbing is its self governance, so if the locals want it that way so be it. This is just my opinion on the subject. I just think that without some base ethics on what should/should not get bolted, you will end up taking a lot away from what otherwise is a beautiful area to climb.
dvilim
Joined May 7, 2012
10 points
Mar 17, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
dvilim wrote:
My main problem with this is the whole "look what I can get away with in mexico, id be hanged if it were anywhere else" vibe of Ed's post. Just because it isnt in a first world country doesnt mean you dont have to respect whats there.


Kind of a week argument.

Are you disturbed by the "look what I can get away with at Rifle, I'd be hanged if it were at the Gunks" vibe, out of curiosity? Ethics vary pretty significantly, not just by nation, but by state, region, land ownership, history, user base, and law.

In Ed's case, what he did may seem tacky to some people coming from other areas, just the same way that some people seeking a wilderness experience at the Potrero would think that blasting stereos in the canyon is tacky. However, locals and most visiting users for the most part do not have problems with either.

And for what it's worth, to quote a comment from another thread on this site a while back, complaining about a bolted-on belay platform at Potrero is like complaining that the kiddy-bumper car ride at Disneyland makes you wear seatbelts. The entire philosophy behind route development at Potrero is not to give you a wilderness experience; it is to make BIG routes as easy and accessible as possible to gumby bolt clippers of mediocre abilities, and it's actually a lot of fun. That's it.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Mar 17, 2013
Magic Ed
I should point out that there is plenty here for the hard climbers as well, as evidenced by Mr. Honnold's recent two-month visit. There's also miles of unclimbed walls so there is plenty of adventure for those who seek it. Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Mar 18, 2013
todd w wrote:
Perspective: How dare you, Ed. How dare you.


ah the "look what others are doing, which is worse, so I should be able to get away with what I'm doing" argument. Yay logical fallacies.

Does that mean we should disregard leave no trace ethics because multinationals are polluting the earth on unbelievable levels?

Sure it may be a drop in the bucket but those drops and the attitude that they don't matter makes a difference. Yes bolts are a "trace" that climbers leave but is one that causes the least possible harm in making a climb possible (if there is no natural pro). But that piece of steel is a unnecessary extravagance that is not needed.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
dvilim wrote:
I just think that without some base ethics on what should/should not get bolted, you will end up taking a lot away from what otherwise is a beautiful area to climb.

While I generally dont agree with bolting lines that can easily be protected on gear, I am not as against as it as many are. Some seem to think that bolting a gear-protectable climb turns the route to complete shit and makes it completely unclimbable. I dont find bolts on gear-protectable to have any affect on my experience on the line. Granted, I dont want to see Zion splitters grid bolted, but if I see a bolt next to a crack on The Nose (which does exist), I am not going to flip out. I dont think it is worth the wasted brain power to argue the validity of some random bolted possibly gear-protectable climb. The Compressor route is a perfect example to back my opinion. I find it incomprehensible that someone is so against bolting alpine lines that they decide to exert the monumental time and effort required to chop a multi-day line.

So in short, dont bolt gear-protectable climbs, but dont waste away your life arguing about bolting.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Administrator
Mar 20, 2013
El Chorro
No, you could definitely get away with that in Thailand. We built a ledge big enough for a few people to bivy on. But we made it out of bamboo. Much more aesthetic and environmentally friendly.

Why didn't you use wood, or better, why didn't you glue some rock to the wall?

Funny how it says "Virgin Rock" right below the picture of the guy standing on a metal ledge that has been bolted on to the wall. No doubt it was a painful first time for the girl eh?
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Mar 20, 2013
CCK
I don't mean to be a one-upper but...
Steven Tata
From Amherst, MA
Joined Apr 8, 2012
155 points
Administrator
Mar 23, 2013
5b upper pitch in the clouds
Two of these, each with room for 3 climbers. Comfortable for rappel line on a popular climb. Things are different over here...

Luxury abseil ledge. Ethics are relative...
Luxury abseil ledge. Ethics are relative...
Dan Flynn
From MA
Joined May 5, 2009
4,287 points
Apr 27, 2013
Ed has devoted endless time, energy, and resources to making el potrero chico as amazing as it is. He's made available at no charge thousands of pitches of pure climbing enjoyment (even to the haters). By now he's earned the artistic license to do what he wants and experiment with new ideas. Actually, my EPC partner would have appreciated a belay ledge, she said the hanging belays hurt b/c she was wearing a non padded arc'teryx harness. Ana Tine
Joined Dec 7, 2012
86 points
Apr 27, 2013
beer
EricSchmidt wrote:
Good point. I guess chipping is no longer an issue either since rocks eventually fall of... Maybe I could come to Salt Lake and turn The Coffin into a hand crack because eventually God is going to turn it into one as well.... Some peoples stupidity while trying to make a point is amazing!



I'd say your retort and comparison is just as stupid considering chipping actually changes the rock a red streak of iron oxide only does so aesthetically not physically & the ledge could just as easily be removed like chopping a bolt.
verticalbound
Joined Jan 18, 2013
21 points
Apr 27, 2013
Ed,

Thank you for your contribution to the climbing community. Very few people give back to our growing sport and it is refreshing to see new solutions created by members of the fold.

Ignore all the haters here, they're too busy trolling MP to be out climbing anyways.

You should challenge them to go down to Potrero and NOT use your new belay ledge since they apparently feel quite strongly about it.
Avi Katz
Joined Sep 8, 2010
203 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!