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 ADVANCED
West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S 
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 
Glamorama S 
Misanthrope, The S 
Only Human S 
Pummeling, The S 
Repulsion S 
Sandman S 
Tommy's 11+ S 

Only Human 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pegg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Description 

    This is the second route in from the left on the Pummeling Wall and climbs to the same anchors as Tommy's 11+. It sits about 20 feet right of that route, and starts up a semi-fractured obtuse corner and turns a little roof.

    Another landmark on the route is a small pine tree growing out of a hueco at 1/3 height.

    Negotiate the corner (caution on the footholds) to the first clip. From here the climbing is continuous, deceptive and bizarre. This route was introduced to me as a "5.11d" warm-up; by the time I found myself totally gripped and flash-pumped at bolt seven, I knew I'd been sandbagged. The departure of a nice clipping jug at bolt three has also made the line harder. Expect sporty climbing.

    Encounter a crimp crux at 2/3 height, then move slightly left to join the finish of Tommy's 11+. Beta hint: The rock is white, so tick marks are no use, and all the holds face the wrong way. Nevertheless, a brilliant face climb, even more so once you dial it in a bit.

    A second pitch could easily (?!) be added to this or Tommy's 11+.


    Protection 

    14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).



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