|West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch|
|FA: ||Dave Pegg|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||259|
|Submitted By: ||Anonymous Coward on Mar 8, 2003|
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This is the second route in from the left on the Pummeling Wall and climbs to the same anchors as Tommy's 11+. It sits about 20 feet right of that route, and starts up a semi-fractured obtuse corner and turns a little roof.
Another landmark on the route is a small pine tree growing out of a hueco at 1/3 height.
Negotiate the corner (caution on the footholds) to the first clip. From here the climbing is continuous, deceptive and bizarre. This route was introduced to me as a "5.11d" warm-up; by the time I found myself totally gripped and flash-pumped at bolt seven, I knew I'd been sandbagged. The departure of a nice clipping jug at bolt three has also made the line harder. Expect sporty climbing.
Encounter a crimp crux at 2/3 height, then move slightly left to join the finish of Tommy's 11+. Beta hint: The rock is white, so tick marks are no use, and all the holds face the wrong way. Nevertheless, a brilliant face climb, even more so once you dial it in a bit.
A second pitch could easily (?!) be added to this or Tommy's 11+.
14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).