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Onion Creek is a small complicated area of Cutler sandstone towers and walls. Most of the activity here is on the Hindu, the Mongoose, and Sari - a cluster of three towers right next to Onion Creek Road. There are also many walls and towers along the slot canyon leading to the mystery towers which sport some fixed anchors and have a great deal of new route potential. As with all areas on Cutler, be wary of loose rock, bad anchors, and scary free climbing.
The Onion Creek Road is in between the turnoff to Castle Valley and the Fisher Towers on River Road(SH 128). The turnoff is about 22 miles northeast of Moab. There is great free camping along Onion Creek Road on designated BLM sites. The Hindu, Mongoose, and Sari will be obvious on the right side of the road after many creek crossings, and the slot canyon leading to the Mystery Towers is not far past this point. The road is rough but passable for passenger cars most of the time-if the road is wet or icy 4WD is a good idea.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Onion Creek:
Featured Route For Onion Creek
The Big Nasty 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c A4 UT : Moab Area : ... : Doric Column
Sweet route by Duane and Walt!!! This is THE LINE on the tower! The original route is a claustrophobic junk show! Pitch 1 - Once at the base of the tower you have a couple options. You can start directly up the "toe" further downhill (we did and added a new 1/2 pitch to the first)or you can start around to the right (uphill and looks WAY more dicey...muddy 5.9 free climbing with minimal pro) towards the original route. Either way gets you to a ledge with the BIG horn anchor. The horn is really c...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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