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One Way Sunset 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 440', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D. Horning, B. Slichter '77
Page Views: 10,283
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Mike Cronin starting up the stellar first pitch of...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another fine route at Devil's Tower, and with more balanced difficulty- fun for everyone and in a variety of sizes!Like Carol's crack, this remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!

Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards the north-most edge of the West Face. You will see a double hanging roof where two pillars are broken off from below. This route ascends the system that goes up between them after a few hundred feet. Until a picture is directly associated with this description, owning the guidebook may be necessary to find the climb.

P1: 150' 5.10c From the face below this system, traverse out and up right to a near-splitter finger crack. About 90' up or so a long crux sequence begins. This is more technical than physical and is not terribly pumpy. The crux protects on TCU's and stoppers. Climb to fixed anchors on a sloping ledge below a small roof. A 3-star pitch by its own merit.

P2: 130' 5.9 Jam up on hands and thin hands through the bulge above and get into the splitter which gets wider in some spots- this is where the bigger cams will go. You will arrive at a ledge with a good fixed anchor after over 1/2 rope length of sustained good climbing. From here you can get great photos of teams on Carol's Crack. This is a two or three-star pitch as well. Most people rap from here, as the rock does not improve. if you've taken enough gear though, and a 70M rope, you can run this right into the next pitch!

P3: 70' 5.9Y ou can continue up through 5.9 crack territory (70') to reach another ledge with another fixed anchor. If this pitch was done independently, you can run it into P4, if you like.

P4: 80' 5.8. Worm up the overhanging chimney above. It doesn't look to appetizing, and we decided not to do this pitch and rap off instead. If you do P4, you can once again hit the summit, however, via P5...

P5: 70' 5.easy Reportedly a traverse left and up various cracks deposits the climber atop the rock. This makes descent complex, however, and the climbing doesn't look spectacular.


Protection 

A good sized rack of stoppers two sets of cams from .5-3.5" should do the trick.2ropes to rap off the 160+ foot first pitch. 50M ropes looked OK.



Photos of One Way Sunset Slideshow Add Photo
The classic locks on One Way Sunset...
The classic locks on One Way Sunset...
Solid jams and poor feet make a great ending to this pitch...
Solid jams and poor feet make a great ending to th...
Mike on p1.
Mike on p1.
Feather fingers
Feather fingers
Fort Collins folks just after the traverse to the finger crack.
Fort Collins folks just after the traverse to the ...
Doug Hemken after the short traverse on P1
Doug Hemken after the short traverse on P1
Tense:  Natalia is focused
Tense: Natalia is focused
Natalia beginning the thin crack
Natalia beginning the thin crack
Matt is about to enter the long, thin section of the first pitch.
Matt is about to enter the long, thin section of t...
Tony Bubb follows on the FIngers pitch of 'One Way Sunset (10c)' on Devil's Tower. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 7/2001.
Tony Bubb follows on the FIngers pitch of 'One Way...
Me at the belay.  Mark starting up pitch two.
Me at the belay. Mark starting up pitch two.
Natalia's poor fit is here.
Natalia's poor fit is here.
At the top of pitch 2
At the top of pitch 2
Sunset on Oneway sunset <br /> <br />unknown climbers
Sunset on Oneway sunset

unknown climbers
Comments on One Way Sunset Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2011
By CURT LOVE
Feb 26, 2004

4th pitch "oneway sunset"If your in the mood, the fourth 5.8 pitch is great. No doubt there is a price to pay, some poor rock, bird shit and some strugle. Most of the steep stuff (wich is most of the pitch) though is good rock and really neat to climb on. Good spot on the tower, and one really nice belay. The Rap off that side alone is worth doing. So if your up to adventure dont stop short, keep going, it is one of the few routes on the west face to go to the top on. USER BEWARE

By Frances Fierst
Administrator
From: Munchweiler, Germany
Jul 8, 2004

Be warned, the first and second pitch require totally different gear. The first pitch takes nuts and small cams (think yellow alien). The first half of the second pitch takes red #1 camalots, and the upper section of pitch two is yellow camalot size.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 10, 2006

Has anyone other than me done the route Astro Glide that climbs the arete right of One Way Sunset? Dennis Horning let me snag the FA of this line years ago and I was wondering if anyone ever does it? How hard did you thin it was. Post your thoughts under the route.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 29, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Superb. Just like many tower pitches, P2 is a rope eater. While thouroughly enjoying jamming my way up i saw remnants of 3 various cords that had seen some unfortunate events. Our line was almost a victim as well. That said, be gentle lowering your rope if rapping from P2.

By nolteboy
Aug 24, 2006

Pitch one is straight-in splitter goodness for fingees. Pitch two is slamma jamma time for hands. mmmmm mmmmm good!!!

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 9, 2006

Both pitch 1 & p2 are excellent ... just in very different ways.

I'd take 2 pieces to 4 inches for p2, they'll be more secure than 3.5 inchers. You could probably take hexes instead of cams, if anyone still climbs with the old cowbells!

By TomKingsbury
Mar 28, 2007

If your gonna climb the one-way sunset, i'd highly suggest climbing the complete route, alittle loose towards the top, but excellent none the less.
toms brother patrick

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 19, 2008

You can rap off of pitch one with a single 70m line (just barely). And to avoid the rope eating crack on pitch two, do a short rap under the roof to the anchors on top of California Dreaming, then rap to the One Way Sunset Anchor (all raps can be safely made with a single 70m line). This makes it possible to TR Cali Dreaming.

The first pitch gets my vote for best 5.10 on this amazing Tower!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

P1 - Stellar. The fingers portion is awesome, and little feet keep appearing to keep things happy. I placed many cams in the green alien to #0.5 camalot size. Nothing larger than a #0.5 camalot needed.

P2 - Yeah, um, heed the comments to bring gear to #3.5 inches. For whatever reason I didn't and regretted it. Rather than contend with 40' of runout, I did an awkward step left to the anchors on California Dreaming. It worked out. Next time, cams to #3.5 inches :) I'd probabably bring two or three #3 camalots, a #3.5 camalot, and maybe a new style #4 camalot (don't know if it would fit though...?)

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2009

I kinda like dirty pitches in the middle of long classics. But after the four star pitches 1 and 2, pitch 3 just sucked. I looked up at pitch 4 and we rapped off!

We were able to skip the rope-eating pull by doing a 60m rappel to the Fractal anchors (from the P2 anchors).

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 22, 2011

A little hard to find for us. Head all the way to the north end of the west face and climb up some 5th class blocks to access the anchors for the first pitch. The beginning is a little sporty, with the gear present but not obvious. Two pitons protect the 1st and last pieces before embarking right to the splitter crack. Bring doubles in .3 camalot to .5 camalot with a couple extra nuts or tcu's in that range. The 2nd pitch is as good as the first, but I would have wanted 3 of each from #1 camalot to #3.