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Sunset North
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Unsorted Routes:

One-Ten 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob Mitchell - late 60s
Page Views: 2,538
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 21, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: One-Ten.

Description 

One-Ten is an excellent choice for a new trad leader. The climbing is easy and gear placements are plentiful. Be sure to protect appropriately for the ledges you'll find along the way. Also a good toprope for beginners just getting on the rock.

Start at a low blocky wall below a left-facing dihedral. Continue up the dihedral then up and left past small roofs and generous ledges. The section near the top is a little thin and a direct finish provides a nice challenge if the earlier part of the climb was just too easy.


Location 

Starts in what's known as the "toprope area," not far north of the trail split.


Protection 

Standard rack -- nuts, cams and tricams. There are placements for larger gear, but they're not critical. Bolted anchors.



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By Chris Blanchard
Feb 19, 2012

If this is going to be your first trad lead - make sure you can climb atleast 5.8 well before trying to tackle this awkward series of ledges and bulges. Good holds but wrong protection in conjunction with a fall would be really bad - the cruxes are the hardest to protect. Fun route tho but I'm glad I knew what I was doing.

By ChillFancy
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a nice climb. Location is at the next climb station to the north (left when facing the wall) of rusty's crack, look for the stackstone walls after rusty's, the climb is to the right of the bolt you can see on the arete of the face one-ten is on. I found placements were very easy: some hand sized pieces for the beginning, mixed metolius and size #.5-#1 BD found their ways in to come ideal spots, and I put a 2 #BD in horizontal right before I started up the final 15'. I noticed that the end is a left traverse on some slopers, but there are some rail like holds further left. 2 OK pines at the top of the climb, probably needs 4' extension to eliminate rope drag. Both of the girls I was with finished the climb, but found the 2 cruxes awkward for those used to face climbs.