One Stop in Tonopah
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Looking down from the belay ledge after leading th...
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Start this climb about 25 feet to the right of "Varnishing Point" at the bottom of several loose flakes standing up against the triangular flake/pillar.Climb up through the loose flakes with good pro if the flakes stay attached to the wall. Clip a bolt at about 40 feet then continue on up another 25 feet or so and stand on top of a flake that is completely detached from the flake/ledges. I am not sure what is keeping this flake attached to the wall. Place excellent gear in a good horizontal, make one move to the right using the horizontal, then fire through a fun crux using holes in the vertical wall. After the crux move up through a large hueco on excellent holds clipping a second bolt above the hueco. After the bolt continue up the outside face of the flake/pillar using cams in huecos, horizontals, and cracks for over 100 feet of fun, exposed, excellent climbing. It is possible after the second bolt to escape from the face around the corner to the right to make the climbing much easier and better protected but I chose to stay out on the face as the climbing is more sustained and better quality there. I placed 11 pieces of protection including the bolts in 150 feet of climbing.
This route would not be considered a classic by most people but I enjoyed it very much because of the very old school trad feel, the vertical very exposed climbing, and the need to really trust that "there really will be holds and gear up there". I only gave it one star despite the excellent climbing on the upper face because of the looseness of the lower section and the lack of distinct line.
The first 30-40 feet of this climb has good pro that is contingent on the flake the pro is placed in staying attached to the cliff. At about 40 feet there is a bolt. The crux is well protected with cams place in a horizontal. There is another bolt at about 70 feet after the crux. On the remainder of the pitch the pro is contingent upon the exact line followed.I stayed on the face for the duration and found adequate pro with cams in horizontals, in huecos and in small cracks on the face.
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 2, 2005
Sorry. I forgot to mention in my description to rappel from the top of the "Varnishing Point" flake/pillar with 2 ropes from a two bolt anchor.