One Rat Too Many
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This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.
Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.
Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.
Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.
Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.
This is left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.
Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the wide crack.
BETA PHOTO: The wide part.
|Comments on One Rat Too Many
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long.