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Prestige Worldwide Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Ellie's Little Crack T 
Bolts & Hoes S 
Dragon 
Drowned Rat T 
F**king Catalina Wine Mixer S 
Feeding The Rat TR 
Flaked Out T 
Gilded Lady, The S 
Kung Fu 
Mud Bath T 
Night Hawk 
One Rat Too Many T 
Pack Rat T 
Pine Tree Eliminate T 
Rain Delay T 
Rat Rod T 
Seams Thin T 
Slabs Direct T 
Slap or Die 
Stay Golden Pony Boy 
Tetherly T 
Trailside Traverse  
Uptown Girl 
Unsorted Routes:

One Rat Too Many 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the wide crack.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.

Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.

Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.

Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.

Location 

This is left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Protection 

Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.


Photos of One Rat Too Many Slideshow Add Photo
Deb enjoys the lower section.
Deb enjoys the lower section.
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your choice.
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
The wide part.
BETA PHOTO: The wide part.

Comments on One Rat Too Many Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The offwidth at the top is the crux. I suck at OW, so it felt like a 5.9 to me. #6 C4 was great to have for it