One Rat Too Many
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BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the wide crack.
This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin
and right of Feeding the Rat
Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.
Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.
Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.
Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.
Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.
Deb enjoys the lower section.
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
BETA PHOTO: The wide part.
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long.
From: Lakewood, co
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The offwidth at the top is the crux. I suck at OW, so it felt like a 5.9 to me. #6 C4 was great to have for it