Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Moss Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Beauty TR 
Canes Crack TR 
Chunky Chimbly T 
Climbski TR 
Clown, The TR 
Crucifix T,TR 
Curbar Edge TR 
Dance on a Volcano TR 
Dany's Demise T,TR 
Dreamer is to Hard, The T,TR 
Dreamer, The TR 
Fearsome Fern Flake TR 
Fool's Overture TR 
Fred P. Jones TR 
Freddie Kreuger TR 
Goat Crack T,TR 
Goat Crap or The Ladder T,TR 
Good Boulder Problem 
Hang Man TR 
Jeff Loves Eileen T,TR 
Joker, The TR 
La Mouche TR 
Lets Stand Him on His Head T,TR 
Little Feat TR 
Looking Glass TR 
Loose Lobster TR 
Marvin Gardens T,TR 
Moon Walk TR 
More or Less T,TR 
Mother's Day Mayhem TR 
Mr. Smiley 
Muntjack TR 
Older but Weissner TR 
One Over The Hill T,TR 
Outside Looking in TR 
Playback T,TR 
Poof! You're a Pomegranite! TR 
Poof! You're an Avocado TR 
Power Tower T,TR 
Prince of Darkness TR 
Roof Roof TR 
Seque T,TR 
Sit on It T 
Sno-White TR 
Spider Web TR 
Spiderman TR 
Super Sonic Flake T,TR 
Superman TR 
Thinker, The TR 
Thit or Tam Cam Loves You T,TR 
Triple Overhang TR 
Tumbleweed T 
Un-named T,TR 
Unhinged or the Hinge TR 
Vegematic TR 
Who Put That There? TR 
Windex TR 
Unsorted Routes:

One Over The Hill 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Martin Berzins 1989
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: adrenalated on Jun 5, 2006  with updates from Bruce Monroe

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The business

Keep in mind that its about 30 degr...

Description 

Formerly known as The Virgin due to the fact that nobody could climb it (supposedly, even Lynn Hill made an unsuccessful attempt at it), One Over The Hill was eventually freed on lead. This thin overhanging crack is rarely climbed, and even then, usually on toprope. A series of small face holds near the crack were eventually found to be crucial to the top section of this route.


Location 

The obvious, thin overhanging crack on the face to the left of Fred P. Jones.


Protection 

TR, it appears that it would take good gear.



Comments on One Over The Hill Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Otey
From: NH
Aug 27, 2009

This route is epically stout for the grade. The locks are shallow, flaring, and wretched, and placing gear is exceedingly difficult. Get ready to get your crimp on for this one.

I noticed some scars where it looks like holds have broken. It's possible that it's gotten harder over the years. I'd peg this at 5.13a.

Protects well with Aliens/TCUs and a rack-o-nuts

FA Martin Berzins, 1989

By RadTrad
From: Prescott, Arizona
Jul 21, 2011

This is THE PREMIERE line on the island. Best crack route around.

By Martin Berzins
Nov 3, 2012

Perhaps worth noting that a right toe lock on the small roof and a very long reach was key to what was the crux for me - the middle of the crack. I only just made it to the hole at the top.
Wasn't sure that I could exit as I'd not top-roped the route so crouched there unprotected while my belayer Bill Griffith went around to the top to see if the finishing holds were OK. He went back down put me back on belay and the ascent was completed. Hope this helps.