One of these days, Felix
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This has some pretty good climbing but needs a lot of cleaning and maybe straightening up.
Start about 50 yards right of Gimmerton Corner, near a prominent dead tree, at a 15' high and 20' wide flake which leans against the main wall just left of a prominent corner with white, flakey rock.
P1 (10+, 80'). Ascend the flake then traverse right along its top to gain the corner. Fight upwards, scrubbing off many flakes along the way, through a non-stop series of cruxes featuring laybacking, stemming, chimmneying and a variety of jamming. After about 50' you leave the flakiness and enter the lichen zone. After a traverse L under a roof, the climbing eases. Swing right and after 20' feet of easier ground, set a belay at a small, level perch where the rock gets a little bit steeper. Three star climbing on what is currently 0 star rock; if it ever cleans up (big if), this pitch will be a classic. The 10+ rating could be a bit of a sandbag -- hard to tell in its current condition.
P2 (9, 50'). Up cracks for 15', then traverse L with little protection for about 30', setting up a belay on a ledge slightly left of another vertical crack system. Decent climbing, but sort of weaselly as it avoids the ostensible difficulties of the natural (straight up) line.
P3 (10-, 100') Follow the crack system straight up with adequate but hard to place gear. After about 50' where the angle eases, move right a little then continue up on easier ground eventually veering L to a belay on a nice, grassy ledge containing some remnants of the artificial bird nest mentioned in [Gillett's] guide. The lower part of this pitch is quality and reasonably clean.
P4 (7, 80') Pike left, avoiding the roof band, on easy ground to the top.
This route could really amount to something, perhaps a multi-pitch testpiece at the grade, if the first pitch cleaned up and the line were straightened out, continuing up where it presently traverses on P2. This would add some thin, steep cracks and a passage through the roof band.
RPs to #4 Friend w/ emphasis on small stoppers to finger size.
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