One of Life's Little Problems
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Pitch 1 and a bit of pitch 2. 5.8 start on the le...
This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete
, Black Lichen Streak
, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned
, and Thin Crack
) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten
starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.
Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney
& Crack of Fear
Standard rack with cams to #4 Camalot (#2 BD wire useful).
By John Maurer
From: Denver, CO
Jul 8, 2008
I think this first pitch is classic and has some great rock. The left hand variant is very nice, too. It made more sense to me to continue up through the beginning of the second pitch and belay from a large flake and solid crack. Many options to downclimb/rap from this area without leaving any gear.
Aug 30, 2010
For the second pitch we ended up in the Tilted Mitten chimney. It fit the description (a right-leaning weakness), and you can't really see the chimney from where we belayed. In any case, it seemed like the natural second pitch as it is located almost directly above the first pitch. If you want to stay on route, then I'm guessing you need to head way right to get there.