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Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak 
Bowels of the Owls, The 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 
Crack of Fear 
East Ridge 
Fist Fight 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems 
Organ Pipes 
Parachute Pants 
Peaches and Cream 
Pin Route 
Rather Fight Than Switch 
Senseless Meaning 
Sunset Arete 
Thimbleberry Jam 
Thin Crack 
Tiger's Tooth 
Tighter Squeeze 
Tilted Mitten 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct 
True American Pinch 
West Chimney 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) 
Wolf's Tooth 
Unsorted Routes:

One of Life's Little Problems 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Bradley, 1960s
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Deb Thompson on Nov 24, 2005
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Pitch 1 and a bit of pitch 2. 5.8 start on the le...

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This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.

Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.

Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.


Standard rack with cams to #4 Camalot (#2 BD wire useful).

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Doing the 5.8 variation.
Doing the 5.8 variation.
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By John Maurer
Jul 8, 2008

I think this first pitch is classic and has some great rock. The left hand variant is very nice, too. It made more sense to me to continue up through the beginning of the second pitch and belay from a large flake and solid crack. Many options to downclimb/rap from this area without leaving any gear.

By 303scott
Aug 30, 2010

For the second pitch we ended up in the Tilted Mitten chimney. It fit the description (a right-leaning weakness), and you can't really see the chimney from where we belayed. In any case, it seemed like the natural second pitch as it is located almost directly above the first pitch. If you want to stay on route, then I'm guessing you need to head way right to get there.