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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

One of Life's Little Problems 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Bradley, 1960s
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Deb Thompson on Nov 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pitch 1 and a bit of pitch 2. 5.8 start on the le...
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Description 

This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.

Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.

Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.


Protection 

Standard rack with cams to #4 Camalot (#2 BD wire useful).



Photos of One of Life's Little Problems Slideshow Add Photo
Doing the 5.8 variation.
Doing the 5.8 variation.
Comments on One of Life's Little Problems Add Comment
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By John Maurer
Jul 8, 2008

I think this first pitch is classic and has some great rock. The left hand variant is very nice, too. It made more sense to me to continue up through the beginning of the second pitch and belay from a large flake and solid crack. Many options to downclimb/rap from this area without leaving any gear.

By 303scott
Aug 30, 2010

For the second pitch we ended up in the Tilted Mitten chimney. It fit the description (a right-leaning weakness), and you can't really see the chimney from where we belayed. In any case, it seemed like the natural second pitch as it is located almost directly above the first pitch. If you want to stay on route, then I'm guessing you need to head way right to get there.