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 ADVANCED
The Quarry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet T,S 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 
Bowels, The T 
Depression  T 
Eastern Heart S 
Elephantiasis S 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years T 
Frank's Wild Years T 
Kleptocracy S 
Koolaid T,TR 
Marry Me, Becky T 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The T 
Offwidth Bulge T 
One Night T,S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South ArÍte 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus S 
Tough Love T 
Unknown T 
Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

One Night 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Equipped- Taylor Roy and Justen Sjong 1/12, FA-Taylor Roy
New Route: Yes
Season: Cool temps
Page Views: 1,147
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Mar 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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One Night.

Description 

One Night is a very unique route that requires a diverse set of skills and the ability to relax and recover at awkward rest stances.

Undulating between less than vertical and slightly overhanging, the route basically breaks down to 5.11a crack climbing, to back-to-back V6, V7, V6 boulder problems, and then some 5.10 to a V5 dihedral. The beginning will test your crack skills and faith in trad gear. The first crux is all about slopers and body power. The second crux involves small edges and horrible smears. The final crux will test your body position and faith in friction.

Climb the first 25 feet of Frank's Wild Years, and traverse right around an arete using a nice hand rail. After clipping the first bolt, compress your way up the steep face using an undercling feature and a slopey arete until you can stand on the hand rail. Once you have recovered, crimp some small edges, paste your feet on nothing, do a hard move to a right hand gaston, and move right until you can stand on a set of small edges. With the end of the difficulties just feet away, get set up on a left-facing feature, stand up on two buttery ripples and make a committing move to the "campus rung", then work your feet up and toss for a huge jug. Mantle onto the shelf of Frank's Wild Years, climb up the easy crack, and finish on the difficult corner of Banquet.

This is such a finicky, yet brilliant route. It gets only three stars, because the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired.

Location 

This is on the left end of the Quarry Wall. Locate Frank's Wild Years, then find the bolts that start about 25 feet up and to the right.

Protection 

Frank's Wild Years requires gear from a blue TCU to a yellow Camalot. Bring a runner for the piece that protects the traverse around the arete.

The rest of the route is protected with bolts and a two bolt anchor.


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One Night.
One Night.

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By rob pizem
Mar 3, 2013

Nice job, Taylor!!!
By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 7, 2013

Thanks, Rob!