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One Move Wonder 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: Tommy Wilson on Feb 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

One of the best lines/single moves in Tucson despite its somewhat diminutive description in the guidebook. From the sit, manage a pair of slanted crimps and make a long move up and right to a positive shark tooth hold. Control the mega swing and finish left (1 pad) or right (pads+spotter). Very powerful and very satisfying.


Location 

Obvious sit down line on the overhung west face of the lower boulder.


Protection 

Pads



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By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2008

Two stars for Broken Rubber, a Tucson classic, and four stars for this??

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 15, 2008

I think it's safe to say that one person's classic might be another person's pile. I just call 'em like I see. In this case, I like One Move Wonder better than Broken Rubber despite the latter's supposed 'classicness'. And it is not like simple words in an online text effect the perceived quality for other people. You climb, you decide.

"edited as per guideline #1"

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 15, 2008

Sorry, I was only wondering... I know opinions are subjective, but I was just a little bit in disbelief on this one. After all, this problem is, as per your description, a "one move wonder." No harm intended.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2008

lol. yeah. I tend to be long-winded and passionate about...well... everything. I'm not in any way mad, but I'm not sure how else to respond to a query about climbing aesthetics. And in any case, have you been on Broken Rubber? It's essentially a one move wonder as well. Only difference is the crux holds are encased in a thick shell of enamel. Even if that wasn't the case, the 'move' on One Move Wonder is still far better in my opinion.

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 17, 2008

I have to admit you're right about Broken Rubber, but I do really like the problem nonetheless - good line, good position, awesome moves throughout. And actually, I realized that I'm not exactly sure what problem you're referring to with One Move Wonder. Initially I thought you were talking about that line on the same face as BR starting on the left, but re-reading the description I'm not sure... is this that problem in the middle of the big face around the corner from Broken Rubber? If so I've never tried the SDS, just the traverse in from the left (which is a pretty rad easy line IMO), and I'd like to jump on it next time I'm in town. Cheers.

By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 17, 2008

Yup. Around the corner. Good crimp for the right hand and a crappy block thing for the left. It's sweet and highly recommended :) Cheers back at ya.

By Theapothecary
Nov 11, 2008

This is a great one move wonder, especially for Tucson. I think it competes against alot of classics here in Colorado.

By brian zimmer
From: tucson, az
Nov 28, 2008

Me and my friends stumbled across this on my first outdoor bouldering trip 2 years ago. I still havent found a more satisfying move/grab.

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Mar 20, 2009

So...this is a one move wonder. However, being that polished is the name of the game for this problem, there are one move wonders in Rifle, CO.(that are more appealing than this polished bunch of garbage)
Instead of this, give these a try in the local area:

P.S. if you start Broken Rubber on the lower right side, on the lowest obvious holds, above the rocks that would hurt your bum if you fell, and continued up left to the left hand under-cling block pinch, then right hand dish...and then finished the problem, of Broken Rubber proper, you would go to the series of crimps to match before resetting feet and tossing to the larger edges diagonally left, before resetting again and then topping out...ALL this WITHOUT making it an eliminate(This actually seems like making the problem more of a full value, versus starting the problem in a crouched position). If this is not enough...see the :North Face of Firepit rock at Cochise Stronghold(V9) without using an 8" cheater(done by Bob murray)...or the 3 move long V7 Pocket Stuffer at the Silverbells, or the V5, 7, or 10 at the Matterhorn Boulder at Mt.Lemmon. All of which are tall and aesthetic.....If you are really interested..look at anything Bob Murray has done within the southwest(Hueco etc. etc) to find some gems. Quit trying to place lame ratings on one move garbage within Tucson, when there are so many noteworthy problems in SE arizona.