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Lei Pi Shan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crash and Burn 
Honky tonk 
One Love 
Power Of One, The 
Waiting for Sophy 
Unsorted Routes:

One Love 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Simon Wilson and some thieving bastard (from guide), 2006/7
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 27, 2010
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This is perhaps the epitome of a one-move-crux route: mostly moderate climbing (mid-11) relative to the grade leads to a hard, in-your-face boulder move with crappy feet. Another 2 or 3 moves of mid-12 above the bolts leads to the final, easier stretch to the anchors.

Still: though the route isn't sustained, its all fun climbing and an overall good time.


One Love starts on the far left of the main area. Step on to the small ledge left of the obvious crack route (Waiting For Sophie). After making a couple moves left, climb straight up moderate terrain through large ledges and pockets to a final large hueco (that often has birds nest debris in it). There, the angle kicks from overhanging to vertical or just less than, and the business begins. Make the clip and then the hard move, then gun it to the anchors.


Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor. This anchor is shared as the most common stopping point for the 6c+ crack route to the right (Waiting For Sophie).

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