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Lei Pi Shan
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One Love 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Simon Wilson and some thieving bastard (from guide), 2006/7
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 27, 2010
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Description 

This is perhaps the epitome of a one-move-crux route: mostly moderate climbing (mid-11) relative to the grade leads to a hard, in-your-face boulder move with crappy feet. Another 2 or 3 moves of mid-12 above the bolts leads to the final, easier stretch to the anchors.

Still: though the route isn't sustained, its all fun climbing and an overall good time.


Location 

One Love starts on the far left of the main area. Step on to the small ledge left of the obvious crack route (Waiting For Sophie). After making a couple moves left, climb straight up moderate terrain through large ledges and pockets to a final large hueco (that often has birds nest debris in it). There, the angle kicks from overhanging to vertical or just less than, and the business begins. Make the clip and then the hard move, then gun it to the anchors.


Protection 

Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor. This anchor is shared as the most common stopping point for the 6c+ crack route to the right (Waiting For Sophie).



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