This crack begins with awkward layback moves under a significant bulge. Reach around the bulge for a solid wide handjam and place a piece. Pull into the crack proper and continue on mainly hands for the first 10-15'. The crack narrows for the remainder of the route, fingers and thin hands, occasional face features for feet. The climbing gets very scrappy and demanding toward the top, jams are thin and flaring, occasional crimps on granite crystals may be better than jams, but feet may be crumbly at this point. Head quickly and positively for the wide hand/fist jam at the end. Place a final #3 Camalot and commit to the awkward friction mantle of the topout.
This takes cams and nuts very nicely. Bring a light SR up to #3 Camalot. The trees at the top can be slung and extended with long runners for anchors. No fixed hardware please -- keep it wild!
Looking straight up One Little Indian.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Feb 20, 2009
You're right. And most likely an onsight solo.
|By erik kapec|
From: prescott, az
Apr 16, 2013
Is this near Brey Street?
May 18, 2013
Quote: "Is this near Brey Street?"
Yes, in the same general area. Not sure what the access is like for this now though.