One Hand Clapping
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 345 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Eric Beck and Peter Hann, 1972 |
Page Views: | 35,420 total · 155/month |
Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Jun 24, 2005 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Classic Black Wall outing.
P1 (5.8): Long pitch, head for the twin cracks and continue up a slightly lower-angle section to a bolted belay.
P2 (5.9): Climb the steep, thin crack above the belay, then move left through a slanting corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the route crux. From here, continue up and left on a ramp system to the large Lizard Ledge.
P3 (5.7-5.12): Numerous options can take you from Lizard Ledge to the summit of Black Wall. The most common/standard finish follows the obvious crack system that leads off the right side of LL (5.7). Some might find this pitch a bit anticlimactic.
Other alternative finishes from Lizard Ledge include: 1) a sparsely-bolted but low-angled and featured slab off the far left side of LL (5.8); 2) a flake to wide crack system off the left side of LL (5.8); 3) a mostly-bolted face to arete off the center of LL (5.10-); and a thin finger crack that splits left off of the standard finish (5.12-).
21 Comments