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Sven Slab
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One for the Road 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 2,652
Submitted By: David Shiembob on Feb 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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The climb gets really slabby for the last 1/3, so ...

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Description 

A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down.


Location 

The last clean rock on the far left hand side of Sven slab.


Protection 

Gear through hands. Be aware you need to place a fair amount of gear to protect from swinging into the gully.



Photos of One for the Road Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of One for the Road.  Super fun route.
Beginning of One for the Road. Super fun route.
Long crack in the middle of the picture.
BETA PHOTO: Long crack in the middle of the picture.
One for the Road
One for the Road
The climb gets really slabby for the last 1/3, so the first 2/3 really make this climb what it is.  I was able to snag a few legit hand jams into the crack but it was mainly lay backing and some thin hands thumb locks.
The climb gets really slabby for the last 1/3, so ...
One For the Road, 5.6  <br />Getting into the crack
One For the Road, 5.6
Getting into the crack
The climbing area guide provided by the parks service.
BETA PHOTO: The climbing area guide provided by the parks serv...
One For the Road, 5.6
One For the Road, 5.6
The climb gets really slabby for the last 1/3, so the first 2/3 really make this climb what it is.  I was able to snag a few legit hand jams into the crack but it was mainly lay backing and some thin hands thumb locks.
The climb gets really slabby for the last 1/3, so ...
One For the Road 5.6
One For the Road 5.6
View from the top.
View from the top.
Comments on One for the Road Add Comment
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By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Dec 1, 2008

We were going to do this one after The Chute, but we observed considerable Bee activity next to One For the Road and decided to skip it. There may be a nest in the gully to the left of the climb about half way up so use caution.

By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Nov 8, 2009

The second pitch is actually pretty fun. Saw bees, not many, no nest (11/09)

By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Awesome pitch. There are bomber spots for pro all the way up. We didn't see any bees on 11/13/09.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Completed 11/23 - No Bees! Great Climb - would be good for newbie to learn to place pro...

By Matt West
From: Vail, CO
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Super fun. Great warmup. Saw bees on 4/2 - but in the gully to the climbers right. Didn't bother us throughout the climb.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Did ROute again on Fri - Bees are heavily active and my partner was stung - The hive is just below the belay on climbers right...

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 9, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

One of best easy trad in McDowells. New double anchor at top of crawl of the wild barely makes it to base with 60 m rope rap

By Guyface
May 6, 2013

BEES are active, and they're getting quite aggressive. They began bumping me as my partner hit the belay, I was stung a few times before we got the heck out of dodge. Once we hit our packs we looked up to see the anchor being swarmed. Appeared as though they were coming from the top of the gully, just above and right of the belay.

By TConner
From: Arizona
Jan 26, 2014

Beautiful crack climb but the hive was very active today. My partner was stung while climbing second so we got down in a hurry.