One for the Road 5.6
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BETA PHOTO: Long crack in the middle of the picture.
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Access: MORE INFO >>>
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down.
Location The last clean rock on the far left hand side of Sven slab.
Protection Gear through hands. Be aware you need to place a fair amount of gear to protect from swinging into the gully.
Beginning of One for the Road. Super fun route.
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One for the Road
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One For the Road, 5.6
Getting into the crack
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One For the Road, 5.6
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One For the Road 5.6
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| Comments on One for the Road |
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By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Dec 1, 2008
| We were going to do this one after The Chute, but we observed considerable Bee activity next to One For the Road and decided to skip it. There may be a nest in the gully to the left of the climb about half way up so use caution. |
By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Nov 8, 2009
| The second pitch is actually pretty fun. Saw bees, not many, no nest (11/09) |
By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Awesome pitch. There are bomber spots for pro all the way up. We didn't see any bees on 11/13/09. |
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Completed 11/23 - No Bees! Great Climb - would be good for newbie to learn to place pro... |
By Matt West
From: Vail, CO
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.6
| Super fun. Great warmup. Saw bees on 4/2 - but in the gully to the climbers right. Didn't bother us throughout the climb. |
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.6
| Did ROute again on Fri - Bees are heavily active and my partner was stung - The hive is just below the belay on climbers right... |
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 9, 2013
| Second pitch isn't as fun as first,but still worth doing. Start up finger crack 5.7 then stay to right of arête one bolt then few gear placements to top out. New double anchor at top of crawl of the wild barely makes it to base with 60 m rope rap |
By Guyface
May 6, 2013
| BEES are active, and they're getting quite aggressive. They began bumping me as my partner hit the belay, I was stung a few times before we got the heck out of dodge. Once we hit our packs we looked up to see the anchor being swarmed. Appeared as though they were coming from the top of the gully, just above and right of the belay. |
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