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One for the Red Team
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 25
votes
Routes in Zowie
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Green Chili T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magic in the Middle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One for the Red Team T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Face Magic T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade III |
| FA: | T. Bubb & J Meir, 6/1/2002 |
| Page Views: | 5,023 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
As you approach Zowie from the south, you will see the chimney on the West side of the South face, this is the standard route. On the East side of the South Face there is a "flatiron" which is the route described by Bell/MacDonald comments in the South Face description.
Just left (West) of this variation, there is an large, overhanging, left-facing dihedral. The two-star rating accounts for the moss and lichen. If it were cleaned it could become a classic pitch.
This dihedral once started with some moss and lichen on slopers, but becomes much more secure after the first 15'. There is not much lichen or moss left according to recent accounts, the rock is really quite good and the moves are really fun.
Climb the wall on the right to move up and into the crack. This is a tad insecure for 15' until you step left and start stemming and jamming your way up the dihedral and through some overhangs and grooves until you are 100+ feet up and at the end of the dihedral. There are good feet out on the left for all overhangs, so the grade remains mellow.
At the end of the dihedral, step out left toward the arete for a move or two, but be careful to avoid the 1000+ pound death block on a ledge near the arete. Climb up a featured face from there, getting protection as necessary (but not necessarily as desired) and go to a large ledge with gear for a belay.
Continue to the summit on the South Face route.
Just left (West) of this variation, there is an large, overhanging, left-facing dihedral. The two-star rating accounts for the moss and lichen. If it were cleaned it could become a classic pitch.
This dihedral once started with some moss and lichen on slopers, but becomes much more secure after the first 15'. There is not much lichen or moss left according to recent accounts, the rock is really quite good and the moves are really fun.
Climb the wall on the right to move up and into the crack. This is a tad insecure for 15' until you step left and start stemming and jamming your way up the dihedral and through some overhangs and grooves until you are 100+ feet up and at the end of the dihedral. There are good feet out on the left for all overhangs, so the grade remains mellow.
At the end of the dihedral, step out left toward the arete for a move or two, but be careful to avoid the 1000+ pound death block on a ledge near the arete. Climb up a featured face from there, getting protection as necessary (but not necessarily as desired) and go to a large ledge with gear for a belay.
Continue to the summit on the South Face route.
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