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 ADVANCED
North Canyon Wall
Select Route:
Adaptation S 
Avoid, The S 
Blockhead S,TR 
Bucky Done Gun 
Dawning Direct, The 
Dawning, The 
Flatland Fever S 
France By Chance S,TR 
Freight Club 
Garden Party T,TR 
Head Solution S 
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 
One Finger Solution S,TR 
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 
Seams to Go T,TR 
Tension Comprehension 
Two Bits S,TR 
Why Be Normal S 

One Finger Solution 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: Brad Boner on Feb 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

This is the hardest route on the North Canyon Wall. It follows the bolted face to the right of "Blockhead". The first bolt is at the very bottom, about chest-height from the ground, and is there just as much for the belayer as the climber to prevent both from tumbling down to the bottom of the canyon in the event of a fall before clipping the next-higher bolt. The first part involves using probably one of the most uncomfortable finger-pockets i've ever encountered, and once past that it really doesn't let up. The climb also includes a cool middle-finger/thumb pinch hold into a pair of small pockets a little more than 1/2 way up, smack in the middle of the face. It's a fun climb, but liable to give you some headachs...

Protection 

Bolts + anchors


Comments on One Finger Solution Add Comment
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By Cameron Luth
Mar 17, 2007

this is a killer route that has some cool akward moves. If your doing this route on toprope i think it goes at 11c/d, if your on lead its pushing 12a.
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Apr 4, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I would have to say that this route is barely 11b on lead. Just my opinion though...
By Kai Segrud
Apr 5, 2007

Agreed, this route is not that hard.
By ColeJ
Apr 19, 2007

No I'd have to disagree with you guys about it not being that hard. For those people that haven't been climbing long or just aren't that good at it then it's a tougher route.
By Kai Segrud
Apr 20, 2007

Regardless of how hard or easy it is for other people; we're referring to how hard it is in comparision to other routes of the same grade.
By butthead
Apr 21, 2007

regardless of how easy or hard it is, I know a good spot for your one finger
By butthead
Apr 21, 2007

ps watch out for the pigeon poo