This is a great warm-up for heading to Stratocaster Direct or the Choad climbs. This is an overhanging jug haul, with a few crimpy moves towards the top. There's a great rest in the middle of the route to de-pump. Be a little careful as some of the slopey feet were a little sandy. The Swain book lists this as 5.11b, which a agree with due to the pumpy nature. The natural "eye" at the bottom of the route that it was named after has since been broken.
Follow the standard directions to the Statocaster Wall. This route is East (right) of the first roof system "Cutloose", and West of the Choad climbs. It has another bolted 5.11b to the right of it that I haven't yet climbed. It is the obvious over-chalked holds on the overhanging bulge. As a landmark, there was a nice rock just back from the climb to sit on while you change your shoes. =)
There are 4 bolts and the anchors (chains).
|Comments on One-Eyed Jacks
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A great climb with good holds-- just as much fun as Cut Loose, but maybe a tad harder. Be bold at the start and either have a good spot or a great belayer!
5 bolts + chains.
edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is also equipped with mussy hooks.
|By John Soares|
From: Corvallis, Or.
Feb 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
short, fun, bouldery route. big moves on big holds. the fixed hardware at the top is a pain to clip! dont freak and fall!
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Nov 2, 2011
No way is this as fun as Cut Loose, but it is worth doing. Pumpy and pretty awkward.