One-Eyed Jacks  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Donny Burroughs Season:  Any Submitted By:  Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sandra firing the opening moves....

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Description 

This is a great warm-up for heading to Stratocaster Direct or the Choad climbs. This is an overhanging jug haul, with a few crimpy moves towards the top. There's a great rest in the middle of the route to de-pump. Be a little careful as some of the slopey feet were a little sandy. The Swain book lists this as 5.11b, which a agree with due to the pumpy nature. The natural "eye" at the bottom of the route that it was named after has since been broken.

Location 

Follow the standard directions to the Statocaster Wall. This route is East (right) of the first roof system "Cutloose", and West of the Choad climbs. It has another bolted 5.11b to the right of it that I haven't yet climbed. It is the obvious over-chalked holds on the overhanging bulge. As a landmark, there was a nice rock just back from the climb to sit on while you change your shoes. =)

Protection 

There are 4 bolts and the anchors (chains).

Photos of One-Eyed Jacks Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: 'One Eyed Jacks (11a) climbs good edges and pocket...	One Eyed Jacks, Red Rocks, Nv.	One Eyed Jacks
Mike	Almost there.	The holds get a little smaller toward the top.
Mike	Mark on the top section of One Eyed Jack