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Warming Wall
Routes Sorted
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Banana Boy S 
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Faulty Break S 
Flakes - Who Needs Them? S 
Ghetto Blaster S 
Gimp, The S 
Greenhouse Effect S 
Heat Vampire S 
Hipster Dufus S 
Hot Flash S 
Jam It S 
Kyoto Protocol S 
Nuclear Winter S 
Oh Zone S 
One Eyed Jack S 
Tittytwister S 
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Warming Trend S 
Warming Wall Crack T 

One Eyed Jack 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Follett, Ian Jewell, 2005
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jan 17, 2007

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Midway through the crux, on One Eyed Jack, 5.11b/c

Description 

This is one of the better routes at Warming Wall. It starts right of Heat Vampire.

Climb up to the first bolt, and continue over the small overlap to clip the 2nd bolt. Getting to and passing the 2nd bolt is the crux and provides some fine moves. The difficulties soon ease as a large pocket and a finger ledge are reached and the 3rd bolt clipped. With little more effort continue on up to the top.

The first 3 bolts provide some fine sustained climbing at the grade.


Location 

Climbs the prow of rock right of Heat Vampire.


Protection 

bolts, with anchors on top.



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Crux of One Eyed Jack, 5.11b/c
Crux of One Eyed Jack, 5.11b/c
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By Slayer
Jun 23, 2010

the anchors have been replaced with rap anchors (must untie from your harness and retie through the anchor to be lowered). a set of matching locking carabiners were placed on the rap anchors to provide safer, faster climbing for all who visit the rock. please return the carabiners...

By SteveSchultz
Aug 20, 2011

FA on this was Jeff Follett and myself back in 2005.

By Mammoth Jeff
Jan 19, 2013

"One Eyed Jack" FA 2005 Jeff Follett, Ian Jewell