This is one of the better routes at Warming Wall. It starts right of Heat Vampire.
Climb up to the first bolt, and continue over the small overlap to clip the 2nd bolt. Getting to and passing the 2nd bolt is the crux and provides some fine moves. The difficulties soon ease as a large pocket and a finger ledge are reached and the 3rd bolt clipped. With little more effort continue on up to the top.
The first 3 bolts provide some fine sustained climbing at the grade.
Climbs the prow of rock right of Heat Vampire.
bolts, with anchors on top.
Crux of One Eyed Jack, 5.11b/c
|Comments on One Eyed Jack
Jun 23, 2010
the anchors have been replaced with rap anchors (must untie from your harness and retie through the anchor to be lowered). a set of matching locking carabiners were placed on the rap anchors to provide safer, faster climbing for all who visit the rock. please return the carabiners...
Aug 20, 2011
FA on this was Jeff Follett and myself back in 2005.
|By Mammoth Jeff|
Jan 19, 2013
"One Eyed Jack" FA 2005 Jeff Follett, Ian Jewell