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Redgarden - Tower One
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One and a Half Hours of Power 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Derek Hersey, Janet Robinson, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Other, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010
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  • Description 

    This is a fun and adventurous outing on the West face of Redgarden Wall. I'd give it three stars for the great movement and continuous climbing, but it loses one star for a few patches of sketchy rock.

    Begin as for the direct start to Yellow Spur, and trend up and left past three bolts (the middle one is hanger-less, but has decent gear close by). After the burly, rather steep start, you'll be relieved to enter the slot/dihedral up high.

    It stays hard, though, as you encounter tricky moves, sparse pro, and suspect rock. There's definitely a few good looking pieces in here, but due to sketchy rock, none are unquestionably bomber.

    Bust left at the top of the slot and end this pitch at the 2 bolt belay shared with Ignition.

    Straight above the belay, burl your way up the steep crack, and past a juggy roof. Continue up the face with good pro, eventually trending left to join a short, left-facing corner that leads to a small roof. Pull the final roof and scamper up a slabby corner to belay on a big ledge.

    The entire route is about 190', so it could theoretically be linked into one pitch, but I think the drag would be a deal-breaker. For a full value pitch, try linking "Ignition" into the second pitch of "Power". Since Ignition is more direct, the drag was not bad.

    Descent: Walk north (climber's left) on the ledge. You can rap off a big tree here, which would likely get you to the 3-bolt anchor on Apple Strudel (I haven't done this, the pull off the tree looked bad). Another option is to continue north on the ledge to the West Chimney bolted rappels (two raps to the ground).


    Location 

    It is between Ignition and the Direct Start to Yellow Spur, on the West face of Redgarden Wall.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack to 2 or 3 inches.

    The only sketchy part was the top half of pitch one, where there's a few different "OK" pieces protecting tricky, insecure climbing.



    Comments on One and a Half Hours of Power Add Comment
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    By Stu Ritchie
    From: Denver
    Aug 8, 2010

    I led perhaps the second ascent of this route, as a single pitch, in the early '90s while Derek sprayed beta from below. What I mainly recall is him constantly encouraging me with comments like, "there's a jug just a bit further," and "the gear gets better higher." In all truth, this is a very good, long pitch with barely adequate protection.

    By Chris Archer
    Aug 9, 2010
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

    Actually Stu, I got the coveted second ascent about 15 minutes after Derek led the FA and also climbed it as a single pitch. I don't remember the gear being an issue except for a flake at the upper crux in the corner, which seemed suspect. Although mostly a link up of previous climbed terrain, it is a worthy pitch.

    By dameeser
    From: denver
    Feb 10, 2012

    What's the deal with the stud? Does it need a hanger or should it be removed according to the ACE website?

    By Scott Bennett
    May 13, 2012

    I haven't checked out the bolt stud in a while, but I remember slinging it with a stopper and wishing it were an actual bolt.

    So yes, if someone is motivated to replace the hanger, or the whole assembly, I think that would be useful.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 14, 2012

    Try submitting a suggestion to ACE...
    I think they have some work coming up anyway.
    If you can't figure out how to contact them, then you can do it through the BCC here:
    boulderclimbingcommunity.net/bolts/

    By ABB
    4 days ago

    There are three bolts in rapid succession after leaving the ground. The first two, including the 1/4" stud without a hanger, were replaced with beefy SS Fixe bolts from American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). The third bolt (not replaced) is a 3/8" wedge bolt that looks to be in good condition.