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Ondra's Ground Up 14d?
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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2012
Just a teaser

Anybody see this video of Adam falling repeatedly with a drill in hand trying to put up a 14d ground up?

www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x_to-tu-jeyty-nebylo-xia-af-a>>>

I can't figure out what he's hanging on that he keeps hitting with his hand? Must of been exciting.


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 1, 2012
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

If it's the part about 7:50 in, it looks like he's slapping a hook to try to get it to set better. Someone who speaks Czech might help. My brother does, I'm tempted to ask him to translate the whole thing. It's interesting to watch Ondra take those whips while trying to drill.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 1, 2012
El Chorro

By the Way he's hitting it straight in I'd think it was a cam hook. You wouldnt hit a bat hook like that. I guess it could be a knife blade or pin of some kind but the speed with which he places it and then weights it make me think it's a cam hook.

Can't believe he tried to drill while free climbing - that looked a bit dangerous. Hooking seemed way safer. I think it's really cool that he is doing this type of stuff. He must be having the time of his life right now.

I bet his friends are as well. Look at that dude hanging out in the tree.


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By Jonathan Ward
From San Francisco
Nov 4, 2012
Me leading pitch 4 of Rewritten.

Look at the bolt he is falling on. It looks like a bunch of dust flies out when he takes the fall. Strange...


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2012
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

That's pretty...hardcore.

Jonathan Ward wrote:
Look at the bolt he is falling on. It looks like a bunch of dust flies out when he takes the fall. Strange...

Maybe it was rock dust from a higher hole that had fallen on the quickdraw's nylon?


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By Dan Felix
Nov 4, 2012

It's chalk dust transferred to the rope from his hands when he jugs back up. It's not coming from the bolt itself.


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By USBRIT
From Cumbria.UK
Nov 4, 2012
desert

Suggest you look up such FA's on sight ground up such as "Innominate" 500' and others ..on the Eastern Reef.. San Rafaen Swell in Utah by Lance Bateman
"Only" 5.12 but all bolts placed on lead from free stances no hooking.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2012
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

Looks like he figured out rap bolting. :)


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Nov 5, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

If you want to do a good job, ground up for a sport route seems pretty silly to me unless there is some practical reason for it. It looks like somebody got him a decent drill too, instead of that little thing that sounded like it was ready to incinerate. Both those crags he was working on look super sweet. I wish I could find one like them in my neck of the woods.


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Nov 6, 2012

Ground-up is the only permitted style for first ascents on Elbe sandstone. Aid between bolts is not permitted, hooking to drill is.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 6, 2012
Stabby

Hooking to drill is aid.


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Nov 6, 2012

Personally I agree, once you hang on something to install a bolt it might as well be a piece of 10mm static from the top.
However I donīt make the rules there, illogical as they may be.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Nov 6, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

Jim Titt wrote:
Personally I agree, once you hang on something to install a bolt it might as well be a piece of 10mm static from the top. However I donīt make the rules there, illogical as they may be.

The rules only make sense if they are a roundabout way to slow down drilling activity, but there are also rules like "no climbing except on towers"


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