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North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
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Full Rubber Mission S 
Glenda S 
Grendel S 
Jabberwocky S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Rumplestiltskin S 
Straight On Til Morning S 
Technowitch S 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 
White Witch S 

Once Upon a Time 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont, Phil Simon & Jean de Lataillade 10/87, Direct Start: Scott Hubbard
Page Views: 2,898
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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An afternoon ascent of Once Upon a Time.

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun, sustained, fest of jugs up the tower. Near the middle of the formation. Climb starts below the black streak and continues up through the black streak to the anchors. Technical crux is near the bottom, enduro route the rest of the way up.

Protection 

Bolts to top anchors.


Photos of Once Upon a Time Slideshow Add Photo
Tammy in the lower moves
Tammy in the lower moves
Tammy about to reach the top section
Tammy about to reach the top section
The midway rest just before the upper crux.
The midway rest just before the upper crux.
Tammy in the lower section
Tammy in the lower section
Holly V on Once Upon a Time, On-site!
Holly V on Once Upon a Time, On-site!
Tammy pulling the crux moves
Tammy pulling the crux moves
A sea of holes.  Climbing Once Upon A Time on the ...
A sea of holes. Climbing Once Upon A Time on the ...

Comments on Once Upon a Time Add Comment
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By Dave Wachter
Sep 26, 2009

Sustained (no snooze ledge, unless you traverse off route), varied climbing on steep rock with good holds. Bottom section provides an interesting contrast to typical Datil climbing, and there's a bit of a runout on big pockets at the end. If you happened to come off, you'd have a whole lot of fun. What more could you want from a tower moderate?
By HoseBeats
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Harder than Golden Stairs but easier than Hippogriff. The chalk washes off this route quickly after any rain, so an onsight attempt can feel a bit wilder than some of the other routes on the tower.
By WSnyder
Jul 11, 2010

Replaced missing belay hanger (after EFR stole it! Ha Ha!). Thanks again to JB for donating more hardware.