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 ADVANCED
Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Bombardment T 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 
Ego Trip T,S 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 
Fun House T 
Fun House Left T 
Happy Trails T 
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 
Once Upon A Climb T 
One Hit To The Body T 
Pleasant St. T 
Pooh T 
Son Of A Birch T 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 
Three Birches T 
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 
Ventilator T 
Western Lady/ California Girls T 
Unsorted Routes:

Once Upon A Climb 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Lowther, Ozzie Blumit & Mark Lynch 1993
Season: Summers are greasy
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: E thatcher on Jul 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Alexa getting into the finger crack.

Description 

The rightmost of the trifecta of thin slab climbs on the lower left wall, Ego Trip, Starfire, and This one. Delicate smearing and thin crimps on the second pitch. The definition of insecure. Pitch 1 could make for a fun single pitch route if you are waiting for another climb on this wall. The route can be located left of the 3 birches arch, and immediately right of the large tree. Look for a bolt ~10' off the ground.

Pitch 1: Just left of 3 Birches is a small foot ramp leading to a bolt. Scramble up this and clip the bolt. Make a hard move to good holds and continue into the corner. Place the only piece on the route in this corner, or, if you trust them, clip the pins. Move easily up to the second bolt. At this bolt, make a hard slab move (crux) and continue to the two bolt belay. 5.9 40'

Pitch2: Easily climb right off of the belay and clip the first bolt. Make a hard slab move past this and continue up the face clipping 6 more bolts. All but one of these were drilled free and on the lead! The crux comes after the small overlap were the pitch steepens. There are actually small holds on this face, but it feels like a slab climb.

Clip the last bolt and join starfire, at the right angling finger crack (the most fun part of the climb!) The crack ends in a dirty corner that you can take the the ledge and a tree anchor. 5.11c 120'

Location 

Left of the prominent arch on 3 birches, and just right of the Large pine tree.

Protection 

Mostly bolt protected, but not necessarily a sport climb, some big "runners" can be taken through the crux section.

Bring a hand full of finger sized pieces for the 5.9 finger crack on the second pitch.

2 bolt belay on P1, and a tree anchor on P2.

Scramble left to a tree rappel with 2 ropes, or scramble up to the barber wall and continue up one of those fine climbs.


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By burlap submariner
Apr 3, 2012

there is no way that the first pitch of this goes at 5.9, its just not that easy, I've seen folks that onsight 11+ fall at the last bolt, I would put the moves at 10c easily if not harder.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

i'd say 10+, its no gimmie
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 4, 2012

Certainly a chance I could be mistaken... does the climb you did match the description I wrote of the first pitch? There's a number of close pitches in that area...
By pabloking
Sep 8, 2014

Once upon a time there must have been an extra foot hold that made the step off the last bolt a 5.9 move. That foot hold no longer exists. My guess is that it is now a 10c move.