Once in a Lifetime 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | ?? |
| Season: | spring, fall |
| Submitted By: | Jonathan Clark on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Description A sustained, difficult to read journey up a dimpled face in a prominent black streak. At the stiff end of the grade. At the steep wall above the belay and make a difficult move over a bulge onto another ledge. Weave a bit left then right to the dimpled face. Go straight up the sustained face to where the angle eases then run it out to join the final move of Brazilian to the fixed anchor. 110' Two double rope raps to the ground.
Location At the fixed anchor on the Belly Button Ledge. This is accessed by climbing Brazilian or Stop Making sense. It's worth noting that you can rap from the top of Groovitational Pull as well.
Protection bolts The bolts on this route are a bit of a mess. The bolts have been placed and removed a number of times as is evident by all of the snapped studs. Many of the bolts are loose. At this point the route isn't unsafe, but it is in need of some work. The last bolt (shared with Brazilian) is missing its hanger and nut. The previous bolt is about thirty feet below so don't blow it. The move is 5.8/5.9 or so.
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