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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Bond, Jenny Bond, Mike Moore
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: mike moore on Nov 13, 2011
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Description 

Start as for First Born by traversing a rightward trending rail. Clip the obvious bolt right of the rail and pull on the slab (bolt), climb through a small roof/hueco (bolt), and up the face past a few more bolts to an easy runout to the chain anchors.


Location 

On the left end of the cliff between First Born and Spanky Spangler


Protection 

7 bolts and chain anchors



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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

It was cool to see Mike get the FA. Good job man.
This route has quality movement, and could use some traffic to help clean it up.
Nice job finding a quality new line that has been hidden in plain sight for many years.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Nov 14, 2011

word, thanks for the time and effort Mista Moore!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Quite good, although I'd highly recommend either stick clipping the second bolt or being really bold- if you blow the move onto the slab, i'm pretty sure you'd deck. Its not bad, maybe low .10, but spooky. I clipped the old SMC bolt, made the move, then clipped the second bolt, and back cleaned the old bolt.