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Waterfront, The
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Waterfront Cave 

On the Waterfront 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jay Anderson
Page Views: 1,558
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Nov 19, 2006
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Court trying the invert method to start

Description 

It's the wildest climb in Little!!! How many routes do your feet cut on?

Starts with an OW to hands to fingers to a mantle to the chains.


Location 

Climb up a ramp to the start of the roof.


Protection 

Standard LCC rack.



Photos of On the Waterfront Slideshow Add Photo
Aaron Collins On the Waterfront
Aaron Collins On the Waterfront
A view from the trail
A view from the trail
Looking out the OW overhang from the base.
Looking out the OW overhang from the base.
Comments on On the Waterfront Add Comment
Show which comments
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jun 8, 2009

FA: Jay Anderson

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 15, 2013

Good bolt(not needed, bomber #4 camalot available) protects the start of overhanging hand stacks(invert?) till you hit the undercling horn. Thin hands around the death flake to a good finger lock, then wide #3 camalots to the Captian Ahab belly flop finish. 2 buttonhead bolts for anchor sans chains. We left a few biners but rapping off caused severe twirlybird rope action. Bring some chain if you have it. Pretty burly route as its short but overhangs most of the way. Tape the crap out of your hands or the crack will tear the crap out of you.

Great gear the whole way: 1 #4 camalot(if you're a purist and don't clip the bolt), doubles #1-#3 camalots and singles .3-.5 camalots will give you plenty of gear options.

Of note, there is a newish looking bolt on the left side of the death flake suggesting someone has indeed thrutched up that horrific looking crack, or as the ruckmans put it, "pretty funkadelic".

By Daniel S Parker
From: Sandy Utah
Aug 10, 2013

the offwidth exit is awesome! bring cams 4 to 6 inches, and make sure to anchor your belay. you may want to seriously consider a helmet for this one, as the ground is close and it's an inverted fall.
I've been calling it Jaws of Flesh, since I cant find any information on it having been climbed.
any offwidth climbers out there? GET ON IT!

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2013

Inverts aren't mandatory for this thing. We had fist jams at the bottom. But if you want to be fancy or have small hands I guess you can go upside down.