On the Up and Up 

Hard for small hands. Wear long sleaves or suffer scummies on the forearms. Out of a dozen climbs this weekend, this one scraped me the most.

An incredible line and well worth the slog up to the base (approach trails are intermittent and loose). For those looking for a straight-in wide hands crack, this (imo) is on par with Supercrack.

There is a second pitch to this route. It is about 60 meters from the ground to the second set of anchors. It is pretty clean of loose rock and still a bit sandy, as it is new. It is long, varied, and pretty hard.

Gear would be 2 60 meter ropes, #.75 (1) #1(1-2) #2 (2-3) #3 (a lot) #3.5 (a lot) #4 (a bunch) #5 (2) #6 (1-2) and I used a #4 big bro.

After the first anchors it becomes wide and undulating, with some offwidth and wide crack climbing though somewhat avoidable by being on the face. It then moves past a few ledges to a short squeeze/thrash of armbar, chickenwing, etc (#6 and big bros here)to a good stance in the squeeze at the top where one can slot a good wide hand jam and pull into the upper splitter which was tight fists/wide hands for me (as a point of reference, I have wide hands in the lower splitter.) Continue up splitter and jog left with a few meters of thinner crack, made easier by good feet. Then up through some wider hands crack to a stance in a chimney, finally climbing up dual cracks around suspect (though seemingly stable while climbing on them, though definitely soft)to a stance with a two bolt anchor (Chain and a cold shut.) 5.11

Another great creek splitter. Wider but a good warmm up. Tought to pull the mini stem-box roof. Take plenty of #3 camalots. 3 and 3.5 friends to supplement would also be good. two or 3 #2 camalots are good too. Don't remember taking a new #4. No big bro necessary.

CL

as to the last comment...
you did not need any big pro because you did pitch 1 [18 meters].
pitch 1 and 2 are 60 meters in hight, and require a large rack and 2 ropes.

alf

the first anchors were removed by hand. the only thing that is left is one bolt. the new anchors are at 60 meters. I kid you not. 60 meters.

Yep, there is now only one bolt at the top of the 70' first pitch. It is new, and it is good, but it is still only one bolt. I lowered off of it, and had a second rope running through the gear as I cleaned on the lower. This thing should get a second bolt.

There is an ok but not great chockstone next to the bolt which could be slung.

put in new bolt 5/15/11 now its safer. do work to keep it safe for all.

Good two bolt anchor at 70 feet as of 3/30/2013. Used a couple of #2 then 6? #3's (could use something in between for 1 or 2 of the #3's). Weird to walk up to a splitter of this quality on Easter weekend and no one else is in sight. The move out of the pod is awesome!