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 ADVANCED
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 
Drunken Crack T,TR 
Haven't A Clue S,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 
Life During Wartime T,TR 
Lion of Zion, The T 
Little Creatures T 
Little Critters T 
Little Things S 
On the Skids S 
Quartzite and (No) Stainless T 
Take Me To The River S,TR 
Unforgiven S,TR 
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

On the Skids 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Theron McNeely, 1990
Page Views: 1,861
Submitted By: Mason on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the start of On The Skids

Description 

This is the first bolted route on the west end of Dogwood, and is an excellent warmup route for doing MMFM further down the rock. Nice climb if you can manage to do it without the crowd.

The smooth/slimy surface (from water runoff when the water is high)on the first section is no indicator of the remainder of the climb, and the holds that are hard to see from the ground appear out of nowhere once you get closer to them and can see shadow.

I'd be more tempted to give this climb two stars if it weren't so crowded, but I'd definitely recommend climbing it (especially for the reason above).

Protection 

6 bolts up to the anchors. I found it useful to use a couple of longer quickdraws. The bolt placements are not always in the best location for rope drag.


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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

That beginnig is a doozy. Smooooth
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 sounds about right for this climb but DAMN it's hard to trust your feet! After bolt #2 the rock is not as smooth, so the climbing is more positive.
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 28, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bottom section of this climb, to the first bolt, is easily as hard as anything on "I Think I'm Going Bald" or "Unforgiven". The climbing just isn't as sustained. Have your belayer give you a spot if you're leading it.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 23, 2007

Did this today, was barely out of the water. We showed up around 8:30 and didn't have another group come until 9:30, but then there were 20 people top-roping the area.

Climbing to the first two bolts is the hard part, after you're on the ledge it's much better. Just have to trust your feet not to slide right off the polished rock.
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this route on lead in the hot afternoon sun. River level was low enough to keep rope dry. I was not able to get any shoe friction on the smooth parts, although I did try, and took a clean fall above the 3rd bolt. Try to stay off the smooth stuff and smear any sharp edges you can find.
By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8+ due to the slippery start. After that it's much more manageable. Enjoyable route with a lot of options.
By Tara Hansen
Apr 8, 2014

beginning was really fun and will definitely test you. A gentleman told me I was sure to fall multiple times (don't ever tell someone that before they climb please). I didn't fall, it was a really fun lead!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Slippy start. Eases up considerably higher on.
By Briscomo
May 15, 2014

Here's Whitney and I at the base of "On the Skids" route. It was slippery till past the first bolt. Dad had to show how its done! :-)

The parking fee for climbers in the Dogwood picnic area is now $8. We parked on the road and walked in. Got crowded after 7pm.

Bring a towel, refreshing sore/tired feet in that cool mountain stream would be very nice.

At the base of On the Skids.
At the base of On the Skids.