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Wildfire Wall
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On The Road 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Grover, Jim Davis, 1980
Page Views: 1,980
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Mar 30, 2006

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on the road
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The technical crux hits soon after the start with a thin crack through a bulge that is finger size dependent. Larger fingers require face moves while smaller fingers can use the thin crack. Fighting the pump to the finish is the other crux of this classic route. A great climb.


Location 

Wildfire Wall


Protection 

Gear to 2 1/2 inches including small cams.



Comments on On The Road Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb kicked my ass - plain and simple. Bring small (I mean small!) cams for the first crux section exiting the awkward flare. The middle section of rattly fingers, while easier, is no cake walk. The final bit of hands is a welcome relief.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Less of a battle the second time, but still a battle. C3s (purple to red) are key at the crux. Plus more small cams for the start. After the crux there is a good big offset nut and a good HB #6 brass. Then it steadily goes from #0.5 camalots to #2 camalots. Most mortals will want a good helping - especially the #0.5/#0.75s . There is a solid 20' of sustained rattly fingers and ringlocks without feet. When it finally goes to hands, it gets overhung so its still no walk in the park. Oh yeah!

By Shelton Hatfield
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 1, 2014

Has anyone else noticed how hollow sounding the right side of the crack is in the thin flared crux bit? A bit alarming but I'd imagine protection placed in that rock has held plenty of falls.