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West Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrobat, The T 
Angle Iron Traverse T 
Coffin Nail T 
Crimes of Passion T 
Dos Equis T 
Edge, The T 
El Camino Real T 
Fingergrip T 
Fingertip Traverse T 
Fingertrip T 
Hangover, The T 
Jensen's Jaunt T 
Last Judgment T 
On the Road T 
Pearly Gate T 
Pigs in Bondage T 
Shit for Brains T 
Slab, The T 
Toe Tip T 
Traitor Horn T 
Unknown? T 

On the Road 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Cook and Chuck Parker, 1973
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006  with updates from Chauncey IV

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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On the Road

Description 

This two pitch route connects to the upper part of Jensenís Jaunt. The first pitch (5.9) is a nice warmup for the crux second pitch. It is a very thin lieback in a large dihedral. The crack is too thin for fingers (for most people), so unusual techniques are needed to climb up to the point where you can exit around to the face on the right.

Trivia 

When Kenny and I began trying this, I thought of something I had read recently, something like "On the Road, you have to keep going"; and it perfectly described this route. Once you start climbing, you have to keep going.
We were astonished the route had not been climbed yet.
Chauncey (once upon a long time ago, Chuck)

Protection 

standard rack, with extra small stoppers


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On the Road
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Real thin pro is necessary for this lead..
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Oct 6, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

PG13 rating given due to the fact that the crack gets so thin that it doens't take any more gear. At this point you exit the dihedral and climb the face/arete on your right. After 10 or more feet you can place a thin micronut in the seam on the face.
By Brandon R.
Oct 11, 2006

I agree about the PG rating. Good gear up until the stance where you move to the face. Felt about 5.9 at the seam above. You wouldn't want to fall here.
By Dan Hickstein
Apr 3, 2007

I believe that I used down to a #4 stopper when the crack thinned. Nothing really thin. I agree with the PG, you have to make some 5.8 or 5.9 moves 10 feet above some small nuts.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is a cool route to do and combine it with the Traitor Horn or any of the other finishing routes in the True Horn alcove.Such as Pealy Gate.
By Toby Tittle
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I exited the dihedral at the top left/roof; same as Coffin Nail. Definitely hard to protect and runout once the seam thins. Purple C3 fit well and felt secure...

Finished up and right through Traitor Horn, and made for a great climb.
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 15, 2013

FA was Ken Cook and Chuck Parker, 1973.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 30, 2013

Fun and a bit heady! Not quite PG13, definitely want small gear. 000 didn't get used, nor did ballnuts; an offset brassy and the rest of the C3's did get used. Exited at the roof up into the finger crack.