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Routes in 03. Machine Gun Kelly
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1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clyde Barrow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scarface S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stair Master S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Substitute S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Those Hips Don't Lie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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When I'm 64 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,814 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
To find this route, hike west from the back to the [Future Area] for several hundred yards. As you are hiking along the trail, keep an eye out for the [Mushroom Dome] formation that is the lower part of the route. You will definitely know it when you see it because it is very unique. It is route number 2 on [William Prehm's Neopolitan Headrush] area photo.
Begin face climbing up the [Mushroom Dome] on good pockets, past 2 bolts and a slightly difficult move or two. The route then traverses a bit left to a small steep corner. Crank like a banshee through this section and 3 bolts into a weird off balance blocky section. The next bolt is way up to the left under the roof. This section of climbing isn't mega tough, but it isn't easy and you will probably be carrying a substantial pump. I would possibly give this section an 'R' rating, because if you come off you will probably eat the big ledge below you. Make sure your belayer is ready to head for [Canon City] (meaning running belay to the south) if you do come off. Once you get the bolt under the roof clipped you can shake your pump out and deal with the stout boulder problem finish. Crank pretty freakin' hard over the roof and keep looking up and to the left. The anchors are difficult to see, but sometimes they have webbing on them. Either bring some webbing and a ring to rap with, or you can hike to the west about a 100 yards and down a [gully] to the trail.
Begin face climbing up the [Mushroom Dome] on good pockets, past 2 bolts and a slightly difficult move or two. The route then traverses a bit left to a small steep corner. Crank like a banshee through this section and 3 bolts into a weird off balance blocky section. The next bolt is way up to the left under the roof. This section of climbing isn't mega tough, but it isn't easy and you will probably be carrying a substantial pump. I would possibly give this section an 'R' rating, because if you come off you will probably eat the big ledge below you. Make sure your belayer is ready to head for [Canon City] (meaning running belay to the south) if you do come off. Once you get the bolt under the roof clipped you can shake your pump out and deal with the stout boulder problem finish. Crank pretty freakin' hard over the roof and keep looking up and to the left. The anchors are difficult to see, but sometimes they have webbing on them. Either bring some webbing and a ring to rap with, or you can hike to the west about a 100 yards and down a [gully] to the trail.
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