On The Fly
|197 page views|
This route ascends the longest stretch of face/slab on the quartzite North East Face of DeMoisy Peak.
Pitch #1: The good quality quartzite is oddly bleached a whitish gray hue. Start up an arÍte past a few faint overlaps to a hand crack trending left and away from the edge. On very nice edges continue left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.8, 30m.
Pitch #2: Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge. Start up to the right of a massive right facing dihedral which veers left and follow the line straight up the slab passing some welcome fixed protection to a belay station. 5.10a/b, 40m
3rd class a short stretch of broken up rock to the summit ridge.
Walk off to the West. Rappelling the route is also possible.
A wonderful and consistent slab route up solid quartzite stone to the summit of an alpine peak.
12 QDs and set of Camalots (C3s and Aliens very helpful!) to #3 and Nuts