Type: Trad, Alpine, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Peter Vintoniv and James Garrett, June 2012
Page Views: 772 total · 5/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

This route ascends the longest stretch of face/slab on the quartzite North East Face of DeMoisy Peak.

Pitch #1: The good quality quartzite is oddly bleached a whitish gray hue. Start up an arĂȘte past a few faint overlaps to a hand crack trending left and away from the edge. On very nice edges continue left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge. Start up to the right of a massive right facing dihedral which veers left and follow the line straight up the slab passing some welcome fixed protection to a belay station. 5.10a/b, 40m

3rd class a short stretch of broken up rock to the summit ridge.

Walk off to the West. Rappelling the route is also possible.

Location Suggest change

A wonderful and consistent slab route up solid quartzite stone to the summit of an alpine peak.

Protection Suggest change

12 QDs and set of Camalots (C3s and Aliens very helpful!) to #3 and Nuts

Photos

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