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DeMoisy Peak
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On The Fly 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Vintoniv and James Garrett, June 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 15, 2012

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Following the upper slab of Pitch #2

Description 

This route ascends the longest stretch of face/slab on the quartzite North East Face of DeMoisy Peak.

Pitch #1: The good quality quartzite is oddly bleached a whitish gray hue. Start up an arÍte past a few faint overlaps to a hand crack trending left and away from the edge. On very nice edges continue left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge. Start up to the right of a massive right facing dihedral which veers left and follow the line straight up the slab passing some welcome fixed protection to a belay station. 5.10a/b, 40m

3rd class a short stretch of broken up rock to the summit ridge.

Walk off to the West. Rappelling the route is also possible.

Location 

A wonderful and consistent slab route up solid quartzite stone to the summit of an alpine peak.

Protection 

12 QDs and set of Camalots (C3s and Aliens very helpful!) to #3 and Nuts


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